I bought an Super HR-E / Super HR-T Fujifilm 18x24 radiographic film.
I have some HC110 developer available.
I diluted it 1:32, as suggested for so called dilution A.
Which development time you suggest for a proper development? This developer is unsuited for such film?
I have tried 5 minutes with poor contrast, but may be the film was unexposed.
Any suggestion?
Thanks in advance.
2 shots taken with Goerz RP II
FP4+(9x12) & Kodak X-ray Blue(13x18):
so fuji without backing does same thing as green kodak, i see - halation . Good to know
(snow, eh?)
yes, snow. i dont realy like this scans (*** epson), too much info is not to see
Epson should be fine. What do you use for scanning? Vuescan? How dense are your negs for the eye? Which film type and parameters you use when scanning?Originally Posted by NiNo
are scans of contact prints, epson scan software, 48 bit color. if i do this as b&w - i dont want to do anything else with bild, too bad resaults. on my contacts i can see enough details in shadows and the prints are looks much more better. but ok, i just cant scan
Could be some auto clipping in the scanning software.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
NiNo, when I looked at those pics, I thought first thing :this is a perfect example why one should use Kodak Ektascan, because it has an anti-halation coating on the back side.are scans of contact prints, epson scan software, 48 bit color. if i do this as b&w - i dont want to do anything else with bild, too bad resaults. on my contacts i can see enough details in shadows and the prints are looks much more better. but ok, i just cant scan
*facepalm* seriously? Should? Because you know.. there is no other option? Why not just use digital then? Whole thing is - people like different looks. "Should" - doesn't enter into the world of artistic judgement.
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