Film holder modification

[Carlos]

Hello everyone,
Does anyone have a system to modify film holders so you can tell from which holder
the film came out? I am doing this so I can look at my notes (exposure, filter or not, etc)
Do you make holes, marks ...
Thanks in advance

[Richard Schlesinger]

Filing/grinding a small notch(es) down under the flap would seem to work Some experimentation in how deep is called for. And working out a coding system, depending on how many holders you have can get confusing for old people who aren't sure who they are (like me, I'm afraid)

[Brent Doerzman]

Carlos, give this a try: www.doerzmanphoto.com/film_holders.html

Hope it helps!

[Ed Richards]

I use a binary code based on position of the notches.

[Doremus Scudder]

I use a system of code notches filed into the flap. The notches to not have to be very deep. I use a set of small files of different shapes and assign each shape a Roman numeral. A small round notch is the "1", a "v" shaped notch, the "5", a square notch the "10", a large curved notch is "50", etc. Numbering up to 100 is no problem, and I rarely carry more than 50 film holders with me. My extras are numbered over starting at 1. If I shoot in sequence, I never have a problem deciding which "1" is which. Do clean the holders thoroughly after filing the notches, since dust from the filing can be a problem if you don't.

Best,

[Denis Pleic]

Carlos, if you want to avoid permanent modifications to holders (i.e. filing notches), another way to get what you need is to print small numbers on laser transparency sheet (on a laser/inkjet printer). Cut the numbers and glue those to the inside of the holder flap. That way you get a small number imprinted on every negative, similar to Grafmatic imprinted numbers. The only drawback is that you obviously lose a very small part of the negative.

I posted some photos on apug.org - here.

Denis

[Mark Sawyer]

I dril little holes in the film guides along the side, grouped into fives for easy counting. It shows up as little dots along the edge of the negative outside the film area, unless, of course, that edge of the image was so low on the exposure scale as not to register an image. Put a thin piece of metal under the guide so you don't drill into the material below it.

I also stick little post-it notes on the dark slide with intended development times, etc.

[Craig Wactor]

My new riteway holders have little clear wheels with numbers on them on the bottom edge.

[jantman]

On the outside of the holder is this nice little white box where I permanently write a number and letter. The number is a holder number, the letter is a side. When I go to unload film into an empty box, I stack up all the holders "B" side up, record the numbers on the outside of the box, flip over the stack, and presto! I have a list of the film in the box, top down, in A-B order.

I process my 8x10 in a Jobo tank, 2 sheets at a time, and just remember which went in which side of the tank. If you're using the multi-sheet tanks, just find a way of numbering the compartments. For tray development, keep the sheets in order, and remember where your stack starts and ends.

[Keith Pitman]

I think it was in Ralph Lambrecht's book that he described the binary numbering system for film holders. After years of trying to keep up with which developed negative was which from my poorly drafted field descrptions, I took the time to 'carve' the notches in all my film holders. It works great and was really worth it. I highly recommend it.