Field Camera or View Camera

[Alan Davenport]

They're all "view" cameras, IMO. (That's a term that isn't really well defined.) What you're really asking is field vs. studio, where "studio" cameras are monorail types.

As for getting the photos, either will do equally well. Equally. The tradeoff is that you give up some movements in exchange for smaller size and lighter weight. However, the movements you lose (with a field camera) are seldom a problem. Many times you can duplicate a movement (such as shifts which are often missing on field cameras) by using other movements that end up the same (swings on both front and rear can give the same end point as a shift, though not as easily.) Also, the movements lost in going to a field camera are seldom needed for field photography. IOW, you probably won't miss them.

If you think like Mr. Weston did, (there is nothing photogenic that can't be seen from the car) then you might be happy with a monorail in the field. If not you'll want a field camera.

[Frank Petronio]

After years of using both, I've found that a good monorail is faster and easier to work with in the field than most folding field cameras. On average, a monorail is bulkier and heavier than a field camera, but in terms of actual use the monorail is a faster and easier camera to operate.

Monorail designs like the Toho, Gowland, and Arca-Swiss blur the line between field and view cameras - they are worth checking out - pay attention to Kerry Thalman's articles on this subject.

http://www.thalmann.com/largeformat/

[Scott Walton]

If your doing only field work, a field camera is the way to go. If your needing/wanting to do correctives like straightening buildings, trees ect., look into a "technical" field camera. These have movements on the lens board and film plane. Just remember, the movements on a field camera are not as much as a monorail but in most cases they are plenty. Linhof's (what I have) have front and back movements as well as a few other manufacturers.

[Harley Goldman]

Since you are new to 4x5, I would suggest buying a relatively inexpensive used camera. Odds are, whatever camera you pick is not the camera you will want once you have shooting a while. I started with a wooden field camera, but now shoot with an Arca monorail when I am not far from the truck (up to a couple of miles) and a Toho monorail when I am backpacking. I prefer the way a monorail camera functions compared to a field camera, but that is strictly a matter of personal taste. Maybe a used Tachihara or Shen Hao (wooden field) would be a great way to start. Or a used Toho.

[Edward (Halifax,NS)]

I have been using a monorail to learn on and I find the controls to be wonderful, especially with my large hands. I worry about tinkering with tiny controls on field cameras. It seems to me that technical cameras like Wista VX would be easier for me to use than a wooden field camera. Would that be a correct assessment?

[Heather Johnson]

I want to purchase a large format 8 x 10 camera to create intimate photographs of people in southern landscapes. I want to blow them up at the minimum size of 30 x 40. I am planning to take one of the santa fe workshops use the camera and I have the jim stone book to the view camera. I want the deardorff camera. I have a question though- Can you use it the 8x10 view camera in a commercial setting and do some creative lighting work with these cameras also???? Thanks

[Lachlan 717]

For me, it's this simple:

It's easier to take a Field camera in to a studio than to take a Studio camera into the field.

And don't be fooled by those advertising photos showing cameras with massive swings and tilts; most portrait and landscape work requires small movements, not huge ones.

[aluncrockford]

Yes you can use a Deardorff in the studio, in fact some of the finest studio photographers used Deadorffs, Irvin Penn and Avedon to name but two, what you do with the light has no relervance what so ever to the choice of camera, having both a Deardorff and a Sinar P2 I would say that for portraits and straightforward stuff the Deardorff is all that you will need, it is also a lot easier to use and carry around . you might find the work of Laura Mcphee worth looking at, she as I understand it also works with a Deardorff

http://www.lauramcphee.com/

[Linhof]

30x40" print may need a 4x5 camera on tripod with very careful ground glass focusing. A view camera will suit your need. If it is for landscape shooting, Sinar P or F2 is a good choice. I think you may find a cheap F2 at xbay easily. Choices of lens are many. No need to use new or expensive one. There are many used Super Angulon available. 90mm is a good start.

[Filmnut]

Something like a Crown or Speed Graphic would be an inexpensive choice to get your feet wet doing LF shooting. Large format takes some getting used to, and I think that you will need some practice to get your techniques right. There is nothing to stop you from loading the film backwards, double exposing, or missing exposures, etc., etc. It's happened to all of us more experienced shooters! Still does in fact!
Keith