Daylight Tank options for 4x5

[ronald moravec]

Nikkor made a 4x5 sheet film tank much like a 35 mm or roll film tank.

The film goes into a grove that spirals inward. 12 sheets 36 oz chemicals. A band goes around the reel to hold the film in place.

As with roll film, best practice is to drop the loaded reel into a prefilled tank in the dark, cap and invert. Whenever you pour developer you risk uneven initial wetting which then appears a uneven development. You always want the wet/dry edge to start and move across the film/paper quickly and smoothly.

The exceptions being plastic tanks where you pour thru a center funnel and wet film bottom up.

Used market only.

[Bob Kerner]

Is that how the Combi Plan should be used?

Perhaps Bob from HP can answer. Or I'll find out in a few days when it arrives. I went with the Combi Plan, after all, since it's available locally with all the parts and largely because Bob S. is a member here and supports his products should there be a problem.

After reading about tray development, I couldn't get over the concern of scratching negatives while "shuffling" them in the tray. If the tank doesn't work out, the Slosher is next on my list. But I'm hopeful I'll only need the tank to get started.

Thanks for everyone's help

[Bob Salomon]

Is that how the Combi Plan should be used?

Perhaps Bob from HP can answer. Or I'll find out in a few days when it arrives. I went with the Combi Plan, after all, since it's available locally with all the parts and largely because Bob S. is a member here and supports his products should there be a problem.

After reading about tray development, I couldn't get over the concern of scratching negatives while "shuffling" them in the tray. If the tank doesn't work out, the Slosher is next on my list. But I'm hopeful I'll only need the tank to get started.

Thanks for everyone's help

Bob,

There are several ways to use the system. One is to fill and empty it through the Light Tight Hose Connectors. Chemistry fills and empties somewhat slowly this way but the fill and drain times are about the same so time the processing accordingly.
Next way is to pre-fill the tank and then do all subsequent steps in the light and drain and fill afterward through the connectors.
Last have three tanks and one insert and set up a dip and dunk line not using inversion agitation and doing everything in the dark.

I use the first option.

[Bob Kerner]

An update

I'd have to agree with other posters. It leaks and it uses a lot of chemistry. I ran my first set of negatives through this morning. I have other issues which I'll ask for help in another thread but as for the tank itself:

My copy leaks from both the nipple on the lid and the lid itself. At first I thought it was just the nipple but then I realized that it was coming out of the corner of the lid opposite the nipple too. Yes, I sealed the lid down all the way and triple checked it. I find this particularly ironic since I went with the tank in large part-because I didn't want to have to contend with trays and putting my hands in the chemicals. I landed up with a lot of chemicals on my hands.

Film holder works well. I mis-loaded one sheet but that's my fault and not the carrier's. In fact, I like the holder enough that I'm wondering if I should try Gem's assembly line method rather than using the lid.

It takes a looooong time to empty. And a lot of chemical = 1050cc (as per instructions)for 4 sheets seems a bit wasteful to me but I'm so new to this I can't say with authority whether I could get by with less in a tray. I think I could.

Good concept, but my experience so far is consistent with other posters about the leakage. I'm not sure if I'll pursue a replacement, go assembly line (buy more tanks I don't love versus get some plastic or metal tanks) or bite the bullet and get trays and take over the bathroom.

[JohnN]

Find a Jobo 2500 with the 2509n reel and loader.

Bite the bullet on using more chemistry (with 6 sheets of 4x5 film in the tank you most likely need more chemistry anyway), and use it inverted. Another poster on another forum told me this, and he was exactly correct. At that time, I risked $180 to try this, and it worked so well I bought a second set as a backup.

I know some people will complain about this, but if you try it, you most likely may not use any other method unless you have the luxury of developing in trays.

Skies in the negative come out smooth; no blotches from ruined negatives with pyro in the Combi, etc. And, it doesn't leak. Important with Pyro.

I'm not knocking combi; bang for the buck is high.

[Gem Singer]

Bob.

Instead of purchasing two additional Combi-Plan tanks, get two inexpensive Yankee Utility tanks (available at B&H) and use them in a line for stop bath and fixer.

Use the Combi-Plan without the lid for developer.

Yankee utility tanks are designed to be used with stainless steel hangers, but come without the hangers. They are large enough to hold two Combi-Plan plastic film hangers.

Re-use fixer until it begins to clear slowly. Use water for stop bath, and do not skimp on developer. Developer is not expensive considering the time, money, and effort it takes to capture an image on film.

[Bob Salomon]

My copy leaks from both the nipple on the lid and the lid itself. At first I thought it was just the nipple but then I realized that it was coming out of the corner of the lid opposite the nipple too. Yes, I sealed the lid down all the way and triple checked it. I find this particularly ironic since I went with the tank in large part-because I didn't want to have to contend with trays and putting my hands in the chemicals. I landed up with a lot of chemicals on my hands.

Then bite the bullet, send it 40 miles to us by UPS or Fed X and you will have a replacement that does not leak within two days. Or just bring it to Jimmy Koh, Neptune, Berger, etc. and they will send it for you.

[photobymike]

Maybe we need to think outside the house a bit. Maybe a new type of holder for the jobo 2500 tank ... check this video out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NuFNUO3H6v8

http://www.mikepic.com

[Carter64]

Maybe we need to think outside the house a bit. Maybe a new type of holder for the jobo 2500 tank ... check this video out.

I was thinking along similar lines but wouldn't there be an issue with the dev unable to flow all around the sheet, the non-emulsion side of the sheet sticking to the tube wall? Or are the tubes ribbed?
Anyway, I've some time off coming soon, I'll probably have a go. In the meantime, I've modded an old Nebro tank to hold the sheets better. Not tested it yet, though. The Nebro is daylight but can't be inverted, so stand dev (Rodinal 1+100?) only. It's also ancient (c. 1950/60)! I have a thing for DIY experimenting and using whatever works, at as low a cost as I can

[photobymike]

I dont know about flowing around the whole sheet... film does have emulsion on both sides, but its not sensitive and maybe can be washed after develop fix ect... anti halation and anti curl ..... i really want to see BTZS tubes work.... I would also like to see a Combi plan work...... Bob ... maybe you could post or point to some pictures. Jobo is getting scarce as chicken lips. Just looked it up at Adorama the description said you can develop 12 sheet BW back to back mmm well check this video out

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NuFNUO3H6v8