I also use a small torpedo level. It's quick, simple and (I think) more accurate than tiny bubbles attached to the camera.
I also use a small torpedo level. It's quick, simple and (I think) more accurate than tiny bubbles attached to the camera.
Most of the time I do not have horizon lines not man-made vertical lines in my images -- so I get to decide what is "level". Dang redwoods don't always stand up straight!
When I do have such lines in my image, I use built-in bubble levels on the pod and camera to get close, then use the image and/or the grid on my GG for the final adjustments. When I was using a 5x7 with no built-in levels, I used a small 4" topedo level on the GG.
Sometimes what is perfectly level, looks "wrong". Vaughn
I used an inexpensive torpedo level for many years. But I got a couple of small "cubes" which are designed to fit in a flash shoe from B and H. I just checked their web site and they seem to offer several choices, one from Jobu Design which looks like mine and several other "double" units. I find these better for putting right on the ground glass. I still use the torpedo level for checking if the front standard is plumb by placing it across the front of the lens barrel.
I like a gadget called an "angle finder". It serves as a level, but also can be adjusted to make one plane parallel with another. You can tilt the camera way up, bring the back parallel to the subject, then use the angle finder to zero out effective front tilt. Several internet tool or industrial supply companies carry them and some models are better made and more expensive than others.
I use a credit card sized level made by Ebisu Diamond, from Lee Valley Tools $9 when I want to do any critical leveling, this was recommended by Jan Pietrzak at one of Per's workshops. http://www.leevalley.com/gifts/page....,48816&p=48816
I do have a cube style level on my Master Technika shoe, but I use it for quick set ups only, note that I am also on a ball mount. The reason for critical level with the Ebisu Diamond is that the film plane is what I want to make sure is level, not the body which might be at a different angle due to back swing and tilt.
I use a bullseye level from Lee Valley to set the camera tilt head level for a starting position. My tripod (US Army Surplus) has two built in levels at right angles, same as I used when I was surveying, so setup is a breeze.
Here's the Lee Valley level I use on the camera bed : http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...09&cat=1,43513
cheers eh?
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