Plate / Clamp system, which is best for LF

[Mike Long]

I just don't see the AS mount as a problem. Once you get used to it, it is very easy to drop the camera mount down into the bed and I just don't let go until I know it's secure. It only takes a second or two. I did use the Bogen hex plate on a 3047 that I had for years but didn't like it. So, I bought a mount with the hex plate base and an AS top. That way it would fit on the 3047 but clamp like the AS. Kirk plates have always been fine for me. The 4x5 plate is a 3 or 4 inch square. Solid as a rock but I'll bet it adds 1/2 lb to the camera. I have been toying with the idea of a Gitzo 2270M (I think that's right). I doubt I would get the QR but would get the long bed.

Mike

[Bill_1856]

For those using the Technika, how do you feel about the Linhof QR plate system?

[David A. Goldfarb]

Like anything Linhof it seems like a nicely built system, but my 2-plate sliding arrangement wouldn't work with it, and I like having Arca-style plates of various lengths on all my cameras that can work with all my tripods and stands and brackets.

[bglick]

Paul, I am not worried about the camera falling out of the plate once fully secure. Before I will go down and tether it, I can simply look to confirm a secure connection. All these clamping systems are pretty damn good once properly secure. My close calls always came on insertion and removal of camera. And I might add, mostly only on the Toyo 810MII, whereas it has all the problems I described above.

Mike....

> I just don't see the AS mount as a problem.

Well, I guess I can say the same thing, since I never had a catastrophe. But I do know of others who suffered catastrophes. It's sort of like a car accident, we hear about em, but never think they will happen to us, even though we may have had some close calls.

A lot of course depends on the camera your using. With cameras whereas I can see what I am doing, no problems exist with any clamp system, as I simply drop the plate into the clamp. Everything is in upright position whereas all is visible and if plate does not seat properly, I see it, and with no effort, correct it. This includes M7, Toyo Vx125 Rail system, 35mm systems, etc. However, I never found dropping the 810 on top of something I can't see as an easy task. The same for removal, one hand on clamp, one hand on 18 lbs worth of camera? It's troublesome, specially under extreme circumstances such as heat, cold, wind, bugs, bad footing, etc. Of course, its not impossible, as I have survived 6 years without a drop.... but I have not been in a car accident in 20 years, and I still elect to buy car insurance. :-)

As for the size of the bottom plate, I use a huge Bogen plate on the bottom of the 810 and also my Seitz 220VR, which is another box whereas nothing is visible on the bottom. However, this has nothing to do with the ability to safely secure the plate into the clamp. The bottom plate should be designed around the stability of the camera near the threaded connection.

[Mike Long]

Bill,

I can't say I look at it nor could I - easily anyway. It's all by feel. But I think the most important thing is my left hand stays on the camera strap until the camera is secure and almost unconsciously I try to lift it out of the QR. Good habits, I guess. My present camera is 3.5 lbs. However, I have extensive experience with a 600mm telephoto and therein might lie the "secret" - I am accustomed to carefully inserting and double checking before assuming it is secure.

Mike

[Scott Davis]

I like the Bogen hex plates for 4x5 and smaller - I haven't found any QR that works with my 8x10 though - the Bogen hex plate would seat nicely on the head, but the camera would very easily torque off the plate, so you could be moving around to the front to make a lens adjustment and the camera would suddenly swing in one direction, pivoting on the QR plate. This is VERY bad especially if you've already focused and loaded your film holder. I now use a non-QR head for my 8x10, and finally have a system (tripod + head) that is vibration free (Gitzo 1415 legs, no center column + 1570 low-profile pan/tilt head).

[Bob Eskridge]

I have never had nor used the Arca system. It seems to be excellent and secure for less bulky cameras. I have used the Bogen's hex and other systems. My interest is speed of mounting in addition to the other concerns mentioned. Some time ago someone on this forum or another mentioned the feeling of security of just using the captive screw of the head to screw the camera to the head for large cameras. He may have been referring specifically to the Ries head.

Several years ago for my Bush Pressman I made a "plate" of 1/4 in aluminum about three inches long and attached one end very securely to my tripod head. A second hole was made about 1 1/2 inches from the attachment point to the head for a screw to attach the camera. Also two pertruding nylon screws were added strategically in such a manner as to partially guide the camera on this plate so the holes of the plate and camera would match up. These nylon screws also serve to prevent twisting of the camera on the plate.

With this system, I can place the camera on top of the tripod/head assembly without looking and screw the camera to the plate using the captive screw which is already lined up with the camera. This has proven to be a very fast, secure, foolproof, cheap and lightweight aystem. The fact that the camera is moved from being directly over the tripod head is used to advantage since it moves the tripod head a little further forward on my Pressman for better balance. I have used this same head/plate assembly for other cameras with no adjustment necessary.

I have a Sinar Norma 5X7 which weighs 9 1/2 lbs but is rather tall and bulky. It is awkward to mount using Bogen's hex system and I have had near mishaps as described above. I surely don't want to have to try to handle the camera while attempting to slide it in an Arca style clamp.

For that reason, I have decided to copy my plate system for the Norma and am in the process of constructing a slightly larger plate (3 inches X 3 1/2 inches) to use when mounting the Sinar. It will offset the mounting position of the camera on my particular tripod head only 1 3/8 inches which can easily be compensated for with the sliding standards of the monorail camera rail.

In summary, while the Arca system may be the best "quick release"system overall followed by the Bogen's hex system there are good alternatives to these systems.

[Richard Schlesinger]

I have and use an Arca quick release on an Arca camera. It is a fine piece of equipment. Last week in Arizona the knob for closing/tightening the clamp disappeared. I wasn't aware it could just come off. I am now awaiting a replacement ($20.00). I would suggest all users of the Arca quick release keep an eye on the knob! Can't mount the camera without it.

[bglick]

Actually, there is a major problem with the big "flat bottom" cameras and Arca type clamps.... the circumfrence of the clamp knob is higher then the top of the clamp, therefore, when putting flat bottom cameras in clamp, there is almost no space between the knob and the bottom of the camera. The only solution would be, build a custom plate with added height, (which is not desireable as these plates get in the way), or build a new clamp system which is taller, and the knob can be placed lower, which will create space, to allow fingers to turn knob.

of course, if there a tiny bit of clearance, you can use finger tips and make several small turns, but I am shooting for something a bit better.

[tim atherton]

"Actually, there is a major problem with the big "flat bottom" cameras and Arca type clamps.... the circumfrence of the clamp knob is higher then the top of the clamp, therefore, when putting flat bottom cameras in clamp, there is almost no space between the knob and the bottom of the camera. The only solution would be, build a custom plate with added height, (which is not desireable as these plates get in the way), or build a new clamp system which is taller, and the knob can be placed lower, which will create space, to allow fingers to turn knob. "

you can also order replacement knobs from a couple of places, with a lower profile, which solve this problem - did this a few years ago for my Arca B1 - works just fine on the big "lat bottomed" 8x10's I've used with it.

(on my Acratech head, the clamp/knob design also alleviates this problem)

I think you can also order third-party parts which solve the "knob falling off problem" - which you need to be careful of, because you can also lose the tapered tube that is the next part in line).