Wanderlust 4x5 P&S

[Larry Kellogg]

Thank you, Larry! Here is what I posted a few years back about the ziplock method:

Today I developed a sheet of x-ray film in a zip lock bag but this time I inflated the bag with air after I poured in 2 litres of developer. It was then placed in an 11x14, flat-bottomed tray. Why did I inflate the bag? This way the top side of the bag won't touch the film and makes agitation a lot easier. Because I blew in air from my mouth, the temperature of developer after development rose from 20C to 21C. I now know that I am full of hot air...
A bit of water in the same tray set to 20C should control the temperature.
Film is scratch free.

Luckily I haven't had any leaky bags... but if I do, the tray helps (you don't need flat-bottomed trays for this method). Putting tempered water in the tray helps regulate the temperature of the developer, but I have found it unnecessary as my darkroom is usually around 21C.

Sounds like fun, but what is an agitation cycle with the ziploc method? I mean, with hangers, I take them out of the tank to the left, back in developer, then out to the right, back in. With the tray method you shuffle like a deck of cards. So, you have your hands in the ziploc bag to shuffle? Is the bag closed up tight? Are you just sloshing one sheet of film around in 2 liters of chemistry?

I also do a lot of processing using t-bars in big 8x10 tanks of chemistry. You can fit something like three rolls on each metal t-bar, and do two t-bars at a time. An agitation cycle is taking them out of the developer for ten seconds every minute, and letting the chemistry run off.

I'm thinking that to develop my 4x10 negatives, I can clip the ends together and do something like I have described above. I don't like the tray method, as I have long fingernails on my right hand for playing the classical guitar, so it's too easy for me to scratch negatives.

[Andrew O'Neill]

With the ziplock bag technique, it's one sheet in the bag. For 8x10, I use 1200ml of solution. I use pyrocat-hd, so very little stock solution is used (5ml of both part A and B). An agitation cycle is just rocking the tray, east/west, north/south for about 5 sec every minute. Another excellent and economical developer is Obisidian Aqua. I have developed using hangers, but I just couldn't master them. I was always getting developer flow marks on the edges.

[Larry Kellogg]

With the ziplock bag technique, it's one sheet in the bag. For 8x10, I use 1200ml of solution. I use pyrocat-hd, so very little stock solution is used (5ml of both part A and B). An agitation cycle is just rocking the tray, east/west, north/south for about 5 sec every minute. Another excellent and economical developer is Obisidian Aqua. I have developed using hangers, but I just couldn't master them. I was always getting developer flow marks on the edges.

I wonder whether just rocking the tray provides enough agitation to produce a large change in contrast. The exhausted developer needs to be replaced in the emulsion in order for a large change to be made, which is why I'm pulling the hangers out of the tanks and letting the developer drain off. I just don't see that happening with the baggy method. Sure, rocking the tray does have an effect, but I think it is similar to what I see when I print. I rock the tray and flip the print every thirty seconds. The flip every thirty seconds really makes a visible difference. Emulsion is emulsion, no matter whether it is on film base or paper.

As for developer flow marks, well, what dilutions are you using? I haven't noticed problems with my 5x7 Tri-X 400 negatives, with HC-110, Dilution F, 1:79, for fifteen minutes. Perhaps the flow marks are from the strength of the developer, the type of developer, or from too violent an agitation, I don't know. By the way, I believe my hanger agitation cycle is from Ansel Adams, if I recall correctly.

[Jim Cole]

Kinda drifted a little here haven't we?

[Kirk Gittings]

What am I missing? Why not just use the tray? What do you gain by putting it into a bag and into the tray? Photographers have been using just the tray successfully for like 100 years.

[Oren Grad]

Kinda drifted a little here haven't we?

That's why it's called "Wanderlust".

[Tin Can]

What am I missing? Why not just use the tray? What do you gain by putting it into a bag and into the tray? Photographers have been using just the tray successfully for like 100 years.

I agree, the tray works best of any method. Baggies, rotary, JOBO, hangers, mail order are all unnecessary. Just get some small trays and try it. It costs the least and works great.

[Tin Can]

That's why it's called "Wanderlust".

+1.

[Steve Pitchford]

Hey Steve,

That's great, we would be happy to try to help.

I'm not familiar with stainless steel reels for 4x5, but I'm familiar with stainless steel hangers. I also know about the MOD54 plastic insert for the Patterson tanks. Of course, tray processing is another option.

I guess darkroom processing is not available, is that why you're using a daylight tank?

Larry

Thanks Larry, & all who posted,

I guess I should have been more specific but I didn't want to be too wordy. As some one pointed out, we're a bit off track...but still on subject as cameras, analog ones, still shoot film. Film must be processed not USB'd. The conversations are great and the baggy trick could be very useful in the field or the B&B you're staying at.

Anyway, I do know how to tray develop but when I get to go out, which isn't often enough, I try to hit more than one location in a day. Some times I'll even shoot two film speeds during the day or even of the same shot. This could result in a dozen or more sheets of film. Processing is time consuming and tray processing the longest. I do have an old Kodak 4X5 reel tank but the reel has disintegrated and I bought a Patterson tank but no insert yet. Currently I use an upstairs bathroom, no window and it's tiny. Where I rent darkroom space -The Art Intersection (.com), I use a Nikor ss tank and reel. It will load 12 sheets of 4x5. Their services are great but somewhat inconvenient. I really like their temperature controlled SS sinks, but their is no printing or developing after 6PM. I would say, Oh woe is me...but then I look at my original Edward Curtis print hanging on the wall, made over 75 years ago. He shot over 40,000 negatives, mostly glass prepared in a tent. Then I laugh at myself. I want it now!, said Verruca. Just wait... said Godot.

Happy trails & let us soon be wanderlust,
SteveP

[Tin Can]

Thanks Larry, & all who posted,

I guess I should have been more specific but I didn't want to be too wordy. As some one pointed out, we're a bit off track...but still on subject as cameras, analog ones, still shoot film. Film must be processed not USB'd. The conversations are great and the baggy trick could be very useful in the field or the B&B you're staying at.

Anyway, I do know how to tray develop but when I get to go out, which isn't often enough, I try to hit more than one location in a day. Some times I'll even shoot two film speeds during the day or even of the same shot. This could result in a dozen or more sheets of film. Processing is time consuming and tray processing the longest. I do have an old Kodak 4X5 reel tank but the reel has disintegrated and I bought a Patterson tank but no insert yet. Currently I use an upstairs bathroom, no window and it's tiny. Where I rent darkroom space -The Art Intersection (.com), I use a Nikor ss tank and reel. It will load 12 sheets of 4x5. Their services are great but somewhat inconvenient. I really like their temperature controlled SS sinks, but their is no printing or developing after 6PM. I would say, Oh woe is me...but then I look at my original Edward Curtis print hanging on the wall, made over 75 years ago. He shot over 40,000 negatives, mostly glass prepared in a tent. Then I laugh at myself. I want it now!, said Verruca. Just wait... said Godot.

Happy trails & let us soon be wanderlust,
SteveP

LOL

Happy Trails!