I just got a 210mm Angulon and mounted it on a Technica style board on my Shen Hao 8x10.
This is how I did it quickly so I can start using it tomorrow.
I just got a 210mm Angulon and mounted it on a Technica style board on my Shen Hao 8x10.
This is how I did it quickly so I can start using it tomorrow.
I used a compass to draw the proposed hole opening. Since I got a Flange with the lens, it's going to have to fit in the middle of the raised lip. I'll be using the flange as a locking ring in this case.
A 1/4 inch drill goes through the aluminum of the lensboard easily.
The inner edge of the circle is smoothed out with a metal cutting bit on a Dremel. The final shape is done with the sandpaper drum.
Final finish obtained with sandpaper.
Here it is mounted on the camera.
Just judging by the light circle, even with full rise, the corners are not vignetted. So, this should be a perfect lens for this camera; i.e. just big enough.
a shotgun at close range works too but a little less precise.
I usually use a coping saw with a metal cutting blade in these situations.
I did it that way because it goes pretty quickly for me and I don't need to hold it in a vice. I'll have to try it with the coping saw next time...though I don't have one. Anything special to look for in a good coping saw? Round blade needed?
Hmm...need another #3 lens...
Or . . .
You could buy a few Copal 3/Linhof type boards and keep them on hand!
Another option . . .
I have a friend with machine shop equipment. He has enlarged lensboard openings for odd sizes--Ektars, Acme, etc. You need to find a new "friend."
Keith Pitman
Pre-drilled Technica-style boards are 65mm which is too big. The 210mm Angulons came in earlier Copal 3 shutters that are 60mm, 61mm or 62mm. They also came in Compound shutters that are not 65mm either. Thats why I prefer the smaller boards; always easier to go bigger than smaller.
No need to drive to a machine shop, thats why I posted this, by the time you are in you car and half way to a machine shop, I have my lens mounted and I'm out shooting
Plus, its unlikely a typical machine shop operator is going to know if its better to mount the flange or use the flange as a locking ring in this case. Also, one needs to take into consideration the shutter mechanism and the lensboard locking mechanism. My Fujinon 300mm uses a 65mm hole and needed to have the typical Technica 'low hole' to clear. The pre-drilled #3 boards Shan-Hao makes are drilled in the center. In this case the lens needed to be mounted right in the center of the board but it's not a 65mm hole.
Also, some older Copal 3s have a mounting ring that serves as a 'step-up' ring to fit a 65mm hole. In that case you have to have the ring in hand and ignore the standard shutter-hole-size charts when you start cutting.
So, all-in-all its best to do it yourself if you want it done right.
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