how to rotate ilex #5

[tgtaylor]

Thank you Brian.

Actually I would have adjusted the position of the flange as set-out in my post above (#10) as at that point it is simply a matter of removing the 4 screws with a Philips screwdriver and repositioning the flange. Why mess with tape which can easily result in the shutter not being exactly parallel to the board or looking for a suitable metal washer when 2 minutes with the screwdriver results in a permanent fix that has no issues.

LOL, unbelievable indeed. I would, but you never told us how big ( or small) that piece of dust was.

I never noticed it when composing but when I removed the element it stood out as a tiny bright shiny object on the glass as if a moisture it, I thought, a scratch. But one puff with the blower and it was gone. I now suspect that it was a small sliver of the shutter housing that became detached while disassembling the lens and settled on the glass.

Thomas

[Jac@stafford.net]

Thank you Brian.

Actually I would have adjusted the position of the flange as set-out in my post above (#10) as at that point it is simply a matter of removing the 4 screws with a Philips screwdriver and repositioning the flange.

It is helpful to understand that many of our constituency do not have a drill, much less a drill-press or other shop tools that make life easier. More power to those who make-do!

[Alan Gales]

Well I was wrong and apologize. I took my lens apart again and found that it is possible to adjust the distance between the shutter and flange without changing the distance between the optical elements. Rather than paper I would have tried to find a small metal washer making it permanent.

Thomas

No worries. We've all been there. Sometimes a person can get something stuck in their brain and it's hard to shake it out.

[Alan Gales]

Actually I would have adjusted the position of the flange as set-out in my post above (#10) as at that point it is simply a matter of removing the 4 screws with a Philips screwdriver and repositioning the flange. Why mess with tape which can easily result in the shutter not being exactly parallel to the board or looking for a suitable metal washer when 2 minutes with the screwdriver results in a permanent fix that has no issues.

Thomas

Yes, that would give three other positions for the shutter. One of the those positions might work fine for the OP. Someone suggested that the holes in the board might not line up perfectly with the holes in the retaining ring after you rotated it. If this is true then it wouldn't work.

With various thicknesses of tape you might be able to adjust the amount of the rotation better.

I think either suggestion might work fine.

[bante]

No changes: is like to move the whole block (shutter, front lens, back lens) a bit forward. Nothing change.

[tgtaylor]

Yes, that would give three other positions for the shutter. One of the those positions might work fine for the OP. Someone suggested that the holes in the board might not line up perfectly with the holes in the retaining ring after you rotated it. If this is true then it wouldn't work.

With various thicknesses of tape you might be able to adjust the amount of the rotation better.

I think either suggestion might work fine.

Of course if it wasn't true, then it would work and would be far better and quicker than fooling with tape which is not permanent and will soon have to be replaced. Far better than tape would have been to use a metal washer which would be a permanent solution while maintaining parallel integrity.

But the photographs supplied by the OP don't show the flange just the front and rear elements removed with a roll of tape nearby. There is nothing to indicate that tape was placed between the shutter and flange and the positioning of the tape was supplied not by the OP but by someone else. "Fake news"?

[DrTang]

6 pages?? really???

hahahahahahaha

[Jac@stafford.net]

Far better than tape would have been to use a metal washer which would be a permanent solution while maintaining parallel integrity.

Kind of a bi-polar response, me thinks.

Can you point us to a supplier of precision, or precise-enough shims? And do we know if the flange has a 1.1mm shoulder as mine does, and how do we cope with that?

I'm done. Thanks for reading.

[LabRat]

I just use sheet film for a even thickness shim (cut with a circle compass cutter)... Scotch tape is a good thin adjustment strip... You can get S/S or brass shim stock in different thicknesses if metal is needed, but just a paper spacer is all that's needed for something that does not get unscrewed often...

Steve K

[BrianShaw]

6 pages?? really???

hahahahahahaha

The funniest thing is that the guy asking the question has fixed his problem and is out shooting pictures, while others are...