Excessively sharp lenses

[Jim Michael]

I have a 1/2 black frost that's pretty subtle, Schneider I think. Only used it on the video camera though. Re the vaseline and nail polish, in the past I made various filters by trying different patterns with vaseline and then using nail polish to make the final version. One that might work for you is a series of dots all over the filter. Use a cheap filter, no need to ruin a good one. KEH has used filters.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Kodak used to make softening filters for printing, and to put over the front of a camera lens. The particular virtue I found was the concentric expressed rings from center to edge which can take the 'edge' off a sharp image, but is uniform so it is not the same as a soft focus lens.

[sanking]

The 43mm specifically is purportedly like the biogon Leica lens and is essentially perfect sharpness.

But all the Mamiya 7 lenses are SUPER sharp.

The 50mm for Mamiya 7 is also very, very good. At one time I carried both it and the 43mm in my kit and both performed at about the same level, which is as good as it gets with medium format wide angle.

I now use a Nikon 800E for most of my travel photography and the comparison in image quality in B&W with the Mamiya 7 is very good in the 50mm and over range of lenses. However, for wide angle nothing I have seen for the 800E, including the best Zeiss primes, comes close to the 43mm and 50mm on Mamiya 7.

Sandy

[Armin Seeholzer]

for wide angle nothing I have seen for the 800E, including the best Zeiss primes, comes close to the 43mm and 50mm on Mamiya 7.

Sandy

Hi Sandy

Did you also test the 15mm Distagon on the 800?

Cheers Armin

[paulr]

I think the problem is with very strong retrofocus designs that you need for <35mm focal lengths on a dslr. They tend toward soft corners ... usually field curvature and astigmatism, or lots of odd shaped distortion. I don't know of any very wide lenses for dslrs that escape these compromises. I'm hoping the days of the reflex mirror are limited.

[sanking]

Hi Sandy

Did you also test the 15mm Distagon on the 800?

Cheers Armin

Have not had a chance to test that lens. Tested most of the other good ones in the 19mm-25mm range.

Sandy

[StoneNYC]

Ok, but with them being cheap and all, you could pick one just to experiment. People don't like cheap filters because they degrade image quality, but this is what you're trying to do. A bit of veiling flare would only help matters.



I'm just curious because I'm waiting for the release of a Schneider small format lens that's based on a 28mm they designed for Mamiya. I'm concerned because the MTF charts of the original lens aren't so impressive. Have you used any of the later model 28s?

Point taken with the cheap filter.

As far as the small format, no, and I don't look at MTF charts, I look at images, and for the most part, MOST higher end 35mm lenses are good enough, there's not enough surface area for it to matter . That's opinion but I just think people who go crazy on 35mm *cough...Leica owners...cough* tout their perfect lenses but I've never seen any 35mm images that was much sharper than I could get from my Canon AE-1

I'm not saying its impossible, sure if you shoot tech pan, it will matter, but for most film like tri-x/hp5 it won't make a lick of difference as far as sharpness goes, however distortion and CA in really cheap lenses is noticeable of course.

The 50mm for Mamiya 7 is also very, very good. At one time I carried both it and the 43mm in my kit and both performed at about the same level, which is as good as it gets with medium format wide angle.

I now use a Nikon 800E for most of my travel photography and the comparison in image quality in B&W with the Mamiya 7 is very good in the 50mm and over range of lenses. However, for wide angle nothing I have seen for the 800E, including the best Zeiss primes, comes close to the 43mm and 50mm on Mamiya 7.

Sandy

Just to bust balls, have you looked at the Canon 14mm USM Mark II? That's a damn jewel, you may be surprised

I have a 1/2 black frost that's pretty subtle, Schneider I think. Only used it on the video camera though. Re the vaseline and nail polish, in the past I made various filters by trying different patterns with vaseline and then using nail polish to make the final version. One that might work for you is a series of dots all over the filter. Use a cheap filter, no need to ruin a good one. KEH has used filters.

Oh is that the "Hollywood Black Magic"? That's the one I want, I've debated between the 1/2 and full stop version.

Very expensive, worth it but I only PERSONALLY need a diffused look only rarely so it's not first on my list.

Proper lighting (in a studio setting) will take care of this.

Agreed, but I think the OP was doing outside work, personally I like it sharp in just answering the WHY question.

[patrickjames]

The Zeiss Softars are the best way to add softness to a sharp lens.

The other way that I know of that hasn't been mentioned yet is hair spray. Easy to put on and easy to get off.

[8x10 user]

Your right to be cautious...

Some solvents would be bad for filters. Glass filters would be less susceptible but some solvents can remove the paint or any glue that holds it in place. Non glass filters should not be boiled or used with solvents unless you know exactly which ones are safe for the material. Some plastics are crazed by alcohol but you can use a strong non polar solvent like naphta or "drum cleaner", other plastics will melt from naptha.

Being oil based I'd say soap and water would be best (most gentle) for cleaning vaseline, finish with distilled water or lens cleaner.

Right and you want me to put solvent on my filter though. I guess I'm just skeptical about the idea.

Ok it's an option.

[paulr]

As far as the small format, no, and I don't look at MTF charts, I look at images, and for the most part, MOST higher end 35mm lenses are good enough, there's not enough surface area for it to matter .

Maybe so with film, but the dslr I'm using now has put all my older small format lenses out of business. I've have two lenses that can take full advantage of its sensor—in the center. But not very far off axis. I haven't found any wide lenses, especially tilt/shift (very wide), that can do so.