Best 4x5 Developing Tank

[Bob Salomon]

"I initially bought a Combi-Plan 4x5 tank, but quite frankly, I thought it was garbage. I never got even development, my sheets kept coming out of the racks, it leaked like crazy and used over a liter of chemistry. It was a nightmare."

We are sorry that you had problems with it you should have called us and we would have walked you through it.
The CombiPlan holds sheet film or glass plates. For sheet film the end plates must have the curved sides facing each other. For glass plates the straight sides must face each other. If you have the wrong sides facing each other or one of each side facing each other you will have problems keeping the film in place and loading the carrier.
The hold down clip on the top will not let properly loaded film slip out unless it is broken. It can be broken by trying to remove it without pressing in on th elong spring sides. It has to be done correctly to dis-engage the teeth on the clip.
If you had uneven development then the most likely cause was improper agitation. The Combi system was designed for inversion agitation using the amount of chemistry listed on the inside of the lid. That amount of chemistry left an air space so the chemistry could flow when the tank was inverted. This brought fresh chemistry in contact with the emulsion during agitation.

Lastly if the lid leaked, and was properly fitted, we would replace it as the system should not leak.

It is too bad you had not called us. We probably would have saved you a lot of grief.

[unixrevolution]

"I initially bought a Combi-Plan 4x5 tank, but quite frankly, I thought it was garbage. I never got even development, my sheets kept coming out of the racks, it leaked like crazy and used over a liter of chemistry. It was a nightmare."

We are sorry that you had problems with it you should have called us and we would have walked you through it.
The CombiPlan holds sheet film or glass plates. For sheet film the end plates must have the curved sides facing each other. For glass plates the straight sides must face each other. If you have the wrong sides facing each other or one of each side facing each other you will have problems keeping the film in place and loading the carrier.
The hold down clip on the top will not let properly loaded film slip out unless it is broken. It can be broken by trying to remove it without pressing in on th elong spring sides. It has to be done correctly to dis-engage the teeth on the clip.
If you had uneven development then the most likely cause was improper agitation. The Combi system was designed for inversion agitation using the amount of chemistry listed on the inside of the lid. That amount of chemistry left an air space so the chemistry could flow when the tank was inverted. This brought fresh chemistry in contact with the emulsion during agitation.

Lastly if the lid leaked, and was properly fitted, we would replace it as the system should not leak.

It is too bad you had not called us. We probably would have saved you a lot of grief.

Bob,

I don't mean to say anything bad about anybody's product, but I have to relate my honest experiences with the tank. I read all the documentation, several times, and test-loaded it in the light with old negatives repeatedly to make sure I was doing it right. The hold-down clip was just fine, and I loaded it as instructed in the leaf of instructions that came with it, loading the film correctly and using the correct amount of chemistry each time according to its lid. I just never got good results. Maybe I agitated too hard, or I wasn't diligent in my loading practices, but it just never worked for me as it should have. It did produce some images, but 9 times out of 10 it would do something bad.

Attempt 1: negatives were badly streaked
Attempt 2: Negatives stuck together
Attempt 3: Negatives stuck to the sides

I can't figure out what you could have told me that would have made it work properly as opposed to what I was doing, but when I got the Orbital it worked, first go, and I didn't have an extensive instruction leaflet for that. I didn't see the point in spending the money on the vast amount of chemicals the Combi-Plan required when the Orbital did what I wanted it to do, and wasn't acting up on me.

The Combi-plan probably *can* work just fine, but for me it was not worth the hassle. I sold it as fast as I could once I figured out how much better I like the orbital tray. It's more economical, easier, and less headache.

[macandal]

You could have gotten double that. The two Nikor 4x5 Tanks on ebay for now are both $300. WAY to expensive in my opinion for a developing tank.

This is true. I've been looking for one of these tanks, but I don't feel like paying $300 for it.

[Riverviewer]

Has anyone tried a 'slosher' plexi development tray?

[StoneNYC]

This is true. I've been looking for one of these tanks, but I don't feel like paying $300 for it.

Really want a MOD54 tank but they are expensive to ship from Europe...

[Gem Singer]

B&H has the MOD54 insert for the Paterson tank listed on their website, with availability on Mar.15th.

[StoneNYC]

B&H has the MOD54 insert for the Paterson tank listed on their website, with availability on Mar.15th.

Thanks, they keep pushing it back though so not sure it will ever happen lol

[Ed Bray]

My favourite way of processing 4x5 and 5x7 is using a Semi-Stand technique (400mls chemicals) with a Paterson Orbital off the base and sat in a tray of water on top of a dishwarmer. Agitation is by slightly rocking the Orbital, fantastic negatives with no streaks or spots. I have also processed 4x5 x4 sheets Taco Style with few issues.

I have tried 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10 in Jobo print drums mostly with some streaking evident.

I also tried a Yankee Tank with very poor results (gave that away).

I have now aquired a brand new Jobo 3010 and a very nice Jobo 3006 but haven't actually used them yet. That is for my next set of negatives.

[Ian Gordon Bilson]

I really don't understand the "Angst" some experience with the Combiplan.
Being in the South Pacific,we never had anything as unlikely as "Product Support",so we had to make it up as we went along.
Never owned a Film Holding Clip,the Rapid Loading Guide lost in a fire.
Fabricated my own loading guide,use Lift & Tilt method-never anything but evenly developed negatives.
If you lack finesse,and treat the tank like a cocktail shaker,you will get streaky,misplaced film,leaks,and all the tedious problems I read so much about.
That said,if you can get some Tupperware containers,and keep the whole rig in a 3-gallon Kodak Tank,with a light-tight lid,you are good to go.
The MOD54 is good in principle- but horribly difficult to load reliably.
A Third Best option after a Combiplan..

[unixrevolution]

I really don't understand the "Angst" some experience with the Combiplan.
Being in the South Pacific,we never had anything as unlikely as "Product Support",so we had to make it up as we went along.
Never owned a Film Holding Clip,the Rapid Loading Guide lost in a fire.
Fabricated my own loading guide,use Lift & Tilt method-never anything but evenly developed negatives.
If you lack finesse,and treat the tank like a cocktail shaker,you will get streaky,misplaced film,leaks,and all the tedious problems I read so much about.
That said,if you can get some Tupperware containers,and keep the whole rig in a 3-gallon Kodak Tank,with a light-tight lid,you are good to go.
The MOD54 is good in principle- but horribly difficult to load reliably.
A Third Best option after a Combiplan..

I read several threads on Combiplans before I bought mine and always handled it appropriately. I followed all the instructions, too. I am not too proud to read a manual. If it works for you, great, but after getting the orbital, I just didn't see putting the effort into getting the Combi to work...especially as I rarely have enough negatives that doing them six at a time is necessary. The orbital is much easier on chemistry.

That said, my experience with the Combi was my experience. If it works for you, enjoy!