No contest: best detail + least grain = Kodak TMax 100. It doesn't make a lot of difference what you develop it in.
No contest: best detail + least grain = Kodak TMax 100. It doesn't make a lot of difference what you develop it in.
Wilhelm (Sarasota)
The only problem with TMAX 100 is that it is difficult to build overall contrast with it and any aspirations to enhance local contrast should be left behind. This lack of overall and local contrast makes detailed and sharp negatives print flat and lifeless.
Tmax/Xtol is the best combination for fine grain and detail by the numbers, save for specialty films like Tech Pan or Gigabit. I don't know what Jason means by his contrast and density statements above, but there have been many,many very fine prints made from Tmax negatives. I doubt that would be the case if it was difficult to build overall contrast (what do you mean by difficult,Jason?) with the film. A quick look at the Tmax/Xtol curves will illustrate that contrast is adjustable over a wide range. If your prints from Tmax negatives are flat and lifeless, the problem is much more likely in the handling than the material. That being said, when I lack the experience to make an informed decision, I follow Mr. Cook's advice. He's never steered me wrong yet.
I have to agree 1000% with Jay. You will get no finer detail and grainless prints than with Tmax/Xtol - my second choice would be PlusX/D23 - but that's just my preference
But again, as stated in previous posts, with a 4x5 neg these matters are less critical than in smaller formats.
You can make beautifully crisp prints to 20x30 with the above combos.
JUST DO IT! Then judge for yourself. As they say, YMMV!
Lots of opinions. Pointless to add mine. Why not do some research and make your own?
Start with The Film Developing Cookbook by Anchell and Troop. It'll tell you how the various developers work. It'll tell you what works well with what. It's a good resource. Basically a distillation of the other major resources, such as Haist.
I should point out one thing though. Most LF shooters come to the realization that they no longer have to concentrate on grain size. A 10x enlargement is virtually "grainless" in any format, any film (even 400 speed films). For 4x5, that's a 40x50 inch print. Just something to think about ;-)
Bruce Watson
I used to use TMAX 100 8x10 exclusively for many years and thought that it was the bees' knees. Until I found something cheaper and for my procedures superior in terms of building local contrast (Efke PL100). I think that it would be wise to shoot some TMX, FP4 and Efke PL100 and see for yourself which one you like the best. These three pretty much covers the debate concerning which ASA 100ish film is the best all-rounder.
I have tried several films and like FP4+ the best so far. I have recently tried some Tri-X 320 Pro and that seems to work well, but I haven't used it nearly as much as the FP4+. As for developers, the only one I've ever used on LF film is D76, in a 1:1 dilution. However, if you have to keep stock solution on hand for a while, and you are far away from a major city or must do mail order to get chemicals, you may be better off going with a liquid developer.
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