Many types of plastic bottles are gas permeable. I can't speak to the specific ones you're using as I've never used them, but you can't go wrong with glass.
Regards, Pete
Many types of plastic bottles are gas permeable. I can't speak to the specific ones you're using as I've never used them, but you can't go wrong with glass.
Regards, Pete
If you like D-76 and you get results you like scanning without messing around with staining developers, I'd stick with HC-110, Ilfosol, or TMax RS. These are full speed developers that won't change your workflow and the stock solution isn't as unreliable as D-76.
An alternative is to simply mix up D-76 out of its component chemicals. The formula is well known and doesn't require unobtainium: just a lab balance of some kind.
Personally, I use Rodinal juiced with sodium sulfite (see unblinkingeye.com) and TMY. But I don't scan, I contact print with contrasty processes. I'd find out what process someone uses before I bother with their film/chemistry choices.
HC110.
http://covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/index.html
I lost access to a dark room and currently not shooting, however, I was very happy with Rodinal, and Agfa100APX, now discontinured in 8x10 size. I have also used Ilford ID-11 and always very happy with the results!! Prefer to do photography and not too keen on experimenting with all the possible combinations of film and developer. (Yes, I know darkroom work is part of photography.) I think my prints are good enough for me, that is who I shoot for.
I am now setting up for shooting 14x17 and will need to figure out a good combination. I am thinking of Ilford FP4+ and either Rodinal or ID-11. Any thoughts?
Thanks, Kreig
Kreig, like you I am moving larger from 8x10 (12x20 in my case). TMY is not available in this size - replace with Classic 400 and partner that with Efke PL100 - Pyrocat HD 2:2:100, minimal or gentle agitation in tubes. The resulting negatives will be perfect for a contact print on AZO or alt process.
Hi
In german lab magacin they did a large testing some years ago and ower all the XTol was the winner! So test it and be a winner! For me its the modern D-76 I use it also for IR films with great results, but you need a testing for your needs anyway!
Well, you see, you get as many recommendations as there are people. I like the one slipped in by "Jon".
HC-110 is the cheapest, most versitile, long lasting Compromise developer there is. If you want something for nothing HC-110 is as close as can be had. I have had concentrate last two years. (It turns dark but is still quite good.)
Small glass bottles ARE better. (Think chemistry lab here.)
Film? Older formulations Are more forgiving. Ilford is a good source, very consistant and committed to continuing manufacture.
You don't say what kind of scanning you are doing but I doubt its resolution will exceed what can be had with the versitie HC-110. I have heard as much about Rodinal but in my location it is less frequently found, so I cannot speak from experience. I have used HC-110 for 28 years.
That said, I am switching now to Pyrocat HD. I do more shooting now and I contact print. These are good reasons to switch - otherwise I would stay with my long time friend HC-110.
Nacco Super 76 from Freestyle might be worth looking into. Its an inexpensive, super concentrated liquid D-76 sold by the gallon for school use. Easy to mix like HC-110. Behaves live D-76. You can whip up fresh working solutions from the syrup as easily as from stock solutions.
Cheers!
"I would feel more optimistic about a bright future for man if he spent less time proving that he can outwit Nature and more time tasting her sweetness and respecting her seniority"---EB White
I had posted a note earlier about a product that wine lovers use to preserve open bottles of wine and I thought it might work on photo chemicals. I found the product and it's called "Private Preserve". Here's the response from my inquiry:
"Our photographer here in the Napa Valley (Robert M. Bruno Photography) has used our product for about 17 years in his darkroom. The only molecules in our can are inert nitrogen, carbon dioxide and argon...
You should always start with fresh bottles, as nothing will reverse the oxidation process.
Regards, Scott Farmer
ps- We have had wine opened, and preserved with "PP" for as long as 4 1/2 years."
Might be worth a try to extend the life of your chems? Just a thought.
Well, I certainly have been give lots of great answers to contemplate. I didn't know at all about D76H, so that is pretty interesting. Perhaps I discarded Xtol too rapidly; I never really realized the price was so low. I think Pyro will have to wait for a while yet; *I* am not yet satisfied with the handling recommendations nor output advantages. An experiment in the future perhaps, particularly if a liquid concentrate becomes available. HC110 has that upswept curve with TMAX....I really like the liquid concentrate idea, but think I would have to change films to use it. Not out of the question (TMAX is kinda expensive), but I am in no rush to do it either.
My short term thing will be to get my storage in order. Time to go find some glass bottles. Since I store in a cupboard, I won't worry about brown ones...making life much easier. Next step I think might be to give Xtol a swing when my current stores of unmixed D-76 run out (a while!).
And I actually have the wine preservative...I use it to preserve woodworking finishes. Never even thought to spray some on my chemicals...
Many thanks for all the helpful replies.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks