Brand new to LF, want to get my feet wet

[Leigh]

Tony,

Don't get hung up on Depth of Field (DoF) calculations.

Every 135mm lens at f/8 will give EXACTLY the same image on any film or sensor, both in focus and out of focus areas. The lens has no idea what film/sensor is behind it.

All of the format-specific hogwash is based on assumptions about what size print will be made from the negative, and what magnification might be required to do that. It's just assumptions piled on top of assumptions.

Make some tests using your camera/lenses, your working methods, and your final product.
Decide from those what aperture to use.

- Leigh

[CRFTony]

Thanks for all the great feedback and advice, everyone. I'm on vacation this weekend in Berkeley Springs, WV but when I get home I will have access to Skype and I will happily chat with anyone interested.

I was very confused about the depth of field issue last night, thinking that LF must have a different dof than 35mm but as I was driving today, I "got it" and realized that the dof is the same as my 35mm cams, it's just that I'll need to use a longer focal length. I have a 300mm lens for my D800 so I'll have to experiment with it and see what apertures I prefer when shooting people as now I mostly use it for wildlife photography.

I don't mind working up close to my people subjects. In fact, I enjoy it for portraiture. And I wouldn't mind a heavier camera as I wouldn't be taking it on any long treks or anywhere dangerous.

I really appreciate the tip about the light meter. I have a slew of pocket wizards and studio lights and it would be great to be able to us them if the situation called for it.

I'm going to spend the next few days doing more research. It's so tempting to just hop online and buy a camera, lens, films,etc but I don't want to make a bad decision so I'm forcing myself to slow down.

Thanks again!

[Andrew Plume]

Tony, welcome

do not get too hung up of dof calculations or any of that techical stuff, just get out there, play around and shoot some film

yes, the Graflex line of Cameras have pretty well nil movements, buy a cheap monorail, they have all of the movements available and more so and play around

good luck and regards

andrew

[CRFTony]

I have to say, this is the friendliest forum I've ever joined! Some of the digital photography forums to which I belong eat newbies alive. It's so refreshing to receive such a warm welcome and such incredible advice and feedback especially when I'm sure my questions are quite amateurish. Thanks again!

[Andrew Plume]

I have to say, this is the friendliest forum I've ever joined! Some of the digital photography forums to which I belong eat newbies alive. It's so refreshing to receive such a warm welcome and such incredible advice and feedback especially when I'm sure my questions are quite amateurish. Thanks again!

thx Tony

everybody has to start somewhere, we all need new members and enthusiasts

regards

andrew

[Louis Pacilla]

I'm going to spend the next few days doing more research. It's so tempting to just hop online and buy a camera, lens, films,etc but I don't want to make a bad decision so I'm forcing myself to slow down.

Thanks again!

Welcome Tony

Just wanted to point out that you can find very good deals on cameras lenses and all the goodies you'll need right here in for the for sale section of the forum. You'll have full access to after 30 days.

Another good reason to slow down a bit. Plus you'll find buying from members on this forum is most always a very pleasant experience.

[Andrew Plume]

Welcome Tony

Just wanted to point out that you can find very good deals on cameras lenses and all the goodies you'll need right here in for the for sale section of the forum. You'll have full access to after 30 days.

Another good reason to slow down a bit. Plus you'll find buying from members on this forum is most always a very pleasant experience.

yes, slow down, that's great advice

andrew

[cosmicexplosion]

Welcome tony

I would suggest getting a field camera over a mono rail.
Not trying to be argumentative
But a field camera ie one that folds up
Is much lighter and easier to handle.
Thus makes a big difference if you want to get a train somewhere or go into the landscape.
Basically for portrait work you won't need extreme movements so most cameras will suit.
Having said that both will work and once set up it doesn't matter
But to illustrate I just did some street shots yesterday, and as the lens I use for my 90 year old? Kodak 2d needs fixing, I used my massive sinar 10x8
I had to use a trolley to carry all my gear
Whereas the 2d just went into standard lowpro camera back pack
I did have a few light leak issues with the 2d so if you get an old wooden camera which your old folks will love make sure to keep dark cloth, the thing you hide under to compose shot over the back when the picture is being taken.
A dark cloth with elastic that goes over camera might be best.
I find the one I have that drapes over is not as dark as It could be and making seeing difficult due to reflection.
And I have to hold the bottom corners together to get a bright image. The elastic will solve that. Or clips.
Any way 4x5 cameras a cheap. A new chamionix is only $700 or so
I second the one lens idea.
Just move your tripod to get closer.
All LF lenses are prime lenses so no zooms.
Ps Sally man uses 100 year old woody field. A 2d I believe from the photos I've seen.
As well as a toyo metal field.
She shoots mainly people....

[drew.saunders]

Thanks for all the great feedback and advice, everyone. I'm on vacation this weekend in Berkeley Springs, WV but when I get home I will have access to Skype and I will happily chat with anyone interested.

You don't list your location in your profile, but it's very likely that there are some forum members who live near enough to you that you could visit and check out their cameras and get some idea as to how LF portraiture works. That'll help you decide between monorail, field or press camera, and at least get you near your preferred focal length for your lens (or lenses, but, yes, start with one or maybe two). The nice thing about the dofmaster web page is that while it does make a bunch of assumptions about final print output, it allows you to adjust the basis for the calculations if you don't agree by changing the value of the circle of confusion, and, yes, explaining circle of confusion is, well, confusing.

Drew

[Bernice Loui]

Hello Tony,

The better thing to do rather than trying to calculate what the potential/ theoretical DOF might be is to simply get a view camera & lens, look at the GG image and burn some film. One can toss numbers around all day long, in the end it all comes down to the finished image.

The look of LF portraiture is going to be different than smaller formats for more reasons than just lens focal length and DOF, it has more to do with that large sheet of film and the behavior of LF optics.

Suggest trying a lens between 210mm and 300mm as a start for head/shoulder portraits. Keep your lighting techniques the same as before so a proper comparison can be made between LF -vs- what you were doing before.

Worth mentioning, there is an entire world of classic soft focus lenses for LF that can enhance the images you create. Take these specialty lenses as spices and not the main dish. If you do venture into this world of classic soft focus lenses, do consider using a format size no smaller than 5x7 for B&W as grain and soft focus may not give the classic smooth look of these specialty lenses.

On purchasing a camera, be it a monorail (I'm biased towads Sinar)/flat bed/press, purchasing an entire camera system with camera, lenses, film holders and etc is usually a better deal and they come up often enough. Ideally, get a camera that is easy to use, tripod that is stable and frustration free-stable tripod head, a modern lens and shutter to start. There is nothing like hardware frustration at the beginning to highly discourage one's journey into the road of LF image making.


Bernice

Thanks for all the great feedback and advice, everyone. I'm on vacation this weekend in Berkeley Springs, WV but when I get home I will have access to Skype and I will happily chat with anyone interested.

I was very confused about the depth of field issue last night, thinking that LF must have a different dof than 35mm but as I was driving today, I "got it" and realized that the dof is the same as my 35mm cams, it's just that I'll need to use a longer focal length. I have a 300mm lens for my D800 so I'll have to experiment with it and see what apertures I prefer when shooting people as now I mostly use it for wildlife photography.

I don't mind working up close to my people subjects. In fact, I enjoy it for portraiture. And I wouldn't mind a heavier camera as I wouldn't be taking it on any long treks or anywhere dangerous.

I really appreciate the tip about the light meter. I have a slew of pocket wizards and studio lights and it would be great to be able to us them if the situation called for it.

I'm going to spend the next few days doing more research. It's so tempting to just hop online and buy a camera, lens, films,etc but I don't want to make a bad decision so I'm forcing myself to slow down.

Thanks again!