Very kind of you Francis, yes I would love the information you offer. I am jdg123@att.net, but if you would post them on this forum then all might benefit from them.
I am mostly concerned with 8x10 AZO printing (but use the Efke in 120 format). I am still using tray development, but the tube times are sure to be off by only a fraction. I can adjust with some insight this way. Many thanks.
John, these times are for Efke PL100 rated 100 developed in Pyrocat HD using BTZS style tubes, destined for AZO contact printing.
Gentle agitation, dilution 2:2:100 SBR 6 : 22 mins SBR 7 : 18 mins 29 secs SBR 8 : 15 mins 36 secs SBR 9 : 10 mins 55 secs SBR 10 : 8 mins 24 secs SBR 11 : 6 mins 43 secs SBR 12 : 5 mins 53 secs SBR 13 : 5 mins
Minimal agitation, dilution 1:1:120 SBR 6 : 64 mins SBR 7 : 48 mins SBR 8 : 32 mins 49 secs SBR 9 : 26 mins 15 secs SBR 10 : 21 mins 20 secs SBR 11 : 18 mins SBR 12 : 13 mins 56 secs SBR 13 : 9 mins 50 secs
Hope this helps. All the above times have been tested with actual scenes and require between 45 to 90 seconds exposure from a 200 watt spot light onto Grade 2 AZO. These negatives will be too dense for enlarging.
With regards to Classic 200, I would not use the film for anything under SBR 8. I find that it is best used for high contrast scenes. I add 15 per cent to the above Efke times for Classic/Fortepan 200.
Many thanks Francis for the data. I am afraid I have some 75 sheets of classic 200 to use up and I have yet to see a SBR of more than 5 this spring. Why is it hat you dissuade one from using Jand C classic 200 in low SBR situations?
In my experience Classic 200/Fortepan 200/(Bergger 200?) do not respond well to N plus development (SBRs of 5 and 6), i.e. extended development only increases density (thus printing times) and after a while actually decreases overall contrast, as well as decreasing the all important local contrast. For my purposes I characterise it as an inherently low contrast film to be used when the subject brightness range is greater than normal or 8 and over. Please do not take my word for it. Try it out with the times I listed plus 15 or 20 per cent. Let me know how it goes for you John.
Francesco,
I appreciate your adding to my knowledge your own and I will take your advice and try out your times plus 15 -20% but the times you gave (posted) are only for efke PL 100. Do you use the same times for Jan C Classic 200?
The only experience I have with the Bergger 200 is with HC-110 and indeed I got negatives with densities so high I got blocked up highlights. I thought of it as a High contrast film. In my experience it was higher than HP5+. I had no trouble printing them, I mean I get AZO prints that look better than silver prints, but I cannot know what the true densities are. I can only at this point compare the negatives with a home-made step tablet made from Kodak Wratten neutral density filters. This eye-balling looks like a DR of 1.5 or so.
Now I am trying to get a handle on Pyrocat-HD (with Jan C Classic 200) and maybe I have yet to use a truely good negative for AZO. I do like my new negatives better but I still don't know if I am getting it all right. Maybe the Jan C Classic just isn't going to get me there anyway from what you report. Do you have a good negative of a bad subject that you could part with? I need some sort of standard to go by and really I am at a loss for how to obtain it. It won't stop me from shooting though. I gotta keep trying.
Thanks for your input Francesco,
John, I have used the times posted plus 20 per cent with Classic 200. I have done so with around 100 sheets of it. If I find a negative I can part with of Classic 200 developed in this manner I will definitely send it to you.
Wow Francesco, you shoot a lot of film. I thank you again for adding to my data base. I hope to return the favor in some way or pay it forward.
Should that negative pop up, please allow me to pay shipping to you. It represents a boon to me.
Sincerely,
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