Yeah ... I just backtracked to the link, John. I've read it before. More full of holes than a
block of swiss cheese. Obviously some relevant info, but hardly an objective set of tests.
Number crunching and real-world printing are not the same thing. Kinda the difference between simulating fission on a computer program and dropping a real A-bomb. One set
of methodology carries more authority than the other. And then there's still an H-bomb
out there (8x10).
Or something completely different...
If your 4x5 camera will accept it, what about one of the really neat convertible 6x6, 6x7, 6x9 & 6x12 roll film holders? You eliminate 4x5 holders and their weight and bulk. You retain all of your movements and lenses.
Wayne
Wayne
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Permit me to interject an antiquity - Zeiss Super Ikonta 6x9.
Wayne - I already referred to rollfilm backs. But they're all over the map in terms of quality.
Given a precise film plane in one and careful focus, combined with the best modern lenses,
and the fact of movements like tilt will give a significant focus edge on conventional MF
gear, where the only option to depth of field is to stop down further and further. I'd much
rather use full-sized sheet film; but there are those instances where traveling with roll film
is more convenient. Alas, most of comparisons with smaller DLSR gear, either use a worst case rollfilm scenario, or in the case of the aforementioned link, a species of film which
ain't exactly the sharpest. And almost universally, such test ignore both movements and
methods to correctly control film plane. Reminds me of all the Powerpoint presentations
MBA's use in the business world - you can prove anything.
Horseman SW-6x12 Pro. That's large on at least one side.
I got a Grandagon 35mm lens for it. Used it for only one paying job. It is WAY too wide for my purposes, especially landscapes.
More about the 2X3 Graphic/Century. They really are fine, scaled down view cameras, I have the Century which I modified to add the movements I typically use. The focusing on my Century is smooth and precise allowing for critical sharpness on the ground glass when using a quality loupe (mine is a Rodenstock). For my uses in landscape photography, if I employ movements, 90% of the time it's a modest amount of forward tilt, or rarely I'll add a little rise. The 2X3 Graphic/Century provides this in spades with the simple modification of reversing the front standard. So instead of offering copious amounts of rear tilt, you now have equally generous front tilt. The amount of rise remains the same. Of course without a rotatable back, all of this works neatly for the horizontal format, which again, is 90% of what I shoot in the field. For the vertical format, the swing movement provides the tilt. The shift Dan Fromm referred to is indeed minimal and the front standard has to been moved far enough ahead of the angled bed struts to make use of the maximum amount. Added swing movements can be accomplished by ever so slightly rounding/grinding the outside edges of the twin clamping plates beneath the front standard. No, it's not a butter smooth movement but it can positioned by hand and then secured with the front standard locking lever. The removable, snap-open fold-shut ground glass hood provides sufficient shading to use the loupe, but I have carried a down-sized black cloth that attaches securely to the camera with an integrated velcro system.
To assure film flatness, ultra-critical for any medium format camera, I use the superbly manufactured Horseman rollfilm backs, I have both the 6X7 and the 6X9. They attach securely and quickly with the Century's graflok back. So the process of focusing with the ground glass back in place and then swiftly changing it out with the Horseman film back takes but a few seconds.
The selection of lenses for this format is abundant. I carry a f8 65mm Super Angulon, a fast f2.8 95mm Rodenstock Heligon (Planar design) or a 105mm Fujinon (Plasmat) for my normal lens, a tiny modern 165mm Ilex Tessar and for a long lens I use a 240mm Linhof select Schneider Tele-Xenar. To make for an even lighter package, I'll take along a late vintage f6.8 65mm Angulon in place of the Super Angulon. With careful focusing, all of these lenses provide crisp, sharp negatives.
My Century is the version without the integrated rangefinder making for a light, compact package. I've added 3 cylinder bubble levels to the body so squaring it up on the tripod is a quick process. The normal lens stores easily on the body when folded up. I then pack the camera, the 65mm wide and 165mm along with a Horseman back, the loupe, a miniscule Metered Light spotmeter and necessary filters and lens hoods in a Lowe Nova Mini case that's about the size of a 6 pack of beer. The padded bag smaller than most digital slr camera cases.
I've been very happy with this system, it provides the same basic movements I employ with my 4X5 in landscape photography but in a much smaller package. And the film costs are dramatically reduced.
Mark
If you prefer to compose scenes, no. If you can wait or return, no. If you plan your images, no.- Is my expectation of gaining some speed realistic?
But if you want speed to capture moments, get the D800e with a bunch of zoom, t&s and prime lenses.
I am using a Fuji GW 690 III, a GSW 690 III and a Plaubel 69w proshift - all with 6x9 slide film. If I want to achieve the same quality as with my Arca Swiss, set up time is almost identical, because all of them require to open a case/bag, setting up the tripod, leveling with a gear head and metering the scene with an external light meter.
If I need a fast camera to capture fast moving or changing situations, I use my Nikon F4s or my Contax G2 system.
Somehow and somewhere we all miss opportunities. The early train, the best girl, the fastest car, the best vacation... that's life!
Oh, just pops into my mind: If you never want to miss a chance, use an iPhone and join flickr & co.
I use a pair of 6x12 backs for half the shots I make with my 4x5, absolutely love them. I would not call them smaller or lighter though, they hold 6 shots as do the three film holders they take the room of. But...you can reload them in the field without a changing tent making them pretty productive.Originally Posted by venchka
It's not a one size fits all world sir, I am a lot faster with a 501CM than I am with my 4x5 and the resulting shots can be just as dynamic and technically excellent with either format. Ever try to mount a 4x5 to a Kenyon gyro and then get the shot from a helicopter...?...didn't think so...And those shots were used in POP ads at 50x50 and looked stell-ar my friend.If you prefer to compose scenes, no. If you can wait or return, no. If you plan your images, no.
But if you want speed to capture moments, get the D800e with a bunch of zoom, t&s and prime lenses.
I am using a Fuji GW 690 III, a GSW 690 III and a Plaubel 69w proshift - all with 6x9 slide film. If I want to achieve the same quality as with my Arca Swiss, set up time is almost identical, because all of them require to open a case/bag, setting up the tripod, leveling with a gear head and metering the scene with an external light meter.
If I need a fast camera to capture fast moving or changing situations, I use my Nikon F4s or my Contax G2 system.
Somehow and somewhere we all miss opportunities. The early train, the best girl, the fastest car, the best vacation... that's life!
Oh, just pops into my mind: If you never want to miss a chance, use an iPhone and join flickr & co.
I think the D800e is a good choice if you don't care about making darkroom prints, which I don't. The image quality is outstanding and it can work multiple ways--with a good tripod you can take your time, use live view and get extremely good results. Not up to 4x5 quality at large print sizes, but very good indeed and great at 24x36in. If you need to handhold, shoot fast, use long glass, shoot aerials, etc., it can do those things too.
It's sort of my "job" camera, while my 4x5 remains my tool of choice for my important projects and, well, better jobs. Of course I would have preferred to stay with an all-film workflow, but digital makes a lot of sense for a lot of assignments when there is no time or budget to shoot film. It also makes a good digital polaroid, though of course it's overkill to use it only for that purpose.
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