First lens for landscape & architecture with Shenhao 4x5

[John D Gerndt]

One other lens to consider for those who are just trying things out are the Symmar convertables. You get two focal lengths in one. Look for the dual f-stop ranges printed on the shutters and do have the speeds of the shutter checked out or you'll never know what your real exposures are.

I break photogrpahy into two types: indoor and outdoor. If indoor you'll need shorter length lenses. Outside calls for "normal" lenses, but really the choice depends more on how you see the world. That is up to you to determine. Don't worry too much about making the best first choice, best guess and go. Running with that feeling that leads to the guess is as good a guide as you will ever know.

Cheers,

[Mike Lopez]

I bought my Shen-Hao from Badger Graphics about a year ago. When I called, they happened to have a used Nikon 150mm W on consignment. I bought it, and I like it a lot. It's slightly wide for your basic exterior architecture, and I've used it in Yosemite and Sequoia National Parks, as well. Congratulations on your purchase.

Mike

P.S. Do you live near a camera store that rents equipment? If so, you might be able to try a few focal lengths before buying anything.

[Brian Kennedy]

I like the idea of a lens in the 120-180mm normal range as a starter lens. I think you'll find them easier to focus than a wide-angle, easier to see the effect of movements on the GG, not super expensive, and a good focal length for landscapes (if a bit long indoors).

Welcome to the club!

[Bruce Watson]

I did something similar. I jumped from 35mm to 4x5. I also thought that I should translate all my 35mm lenses to 4x5 and I'd be set. And... I was wrong.

I came to the conclusion that the reason for this is the difference between hand holding and using a tripod. When hand holding, you can look through the view finder and move side-to-side, back and forth, up and down for framing. Using a tripod, this is difficult to do. More importantly, it's an undesirable way to work.

Another factor is that I had learned the neccessity of "filling the frame" in 35mm and I persisted (still do when I'm not paying attention to it) doing this in the 4x5 world. With 15x the film area, this isn't a requirement anymore. Unless, of course, you are planning on making a lot of 4x5 foot prints or bigger ;-)

Here's what I would suggest. Plan on eventually owning lenses that give you a series of view angles that are useful to you. What I carry with me these days are lenses that give me close to 60, 45, and 30 degrees of view angle (what the film sees in horizontal). For me, these lenses are the 110mm Schneider Super Symmar XL, a 150mm Rodenstock Sironar-S, and a 240mm Fujinon-A. All outstandingly sharp, all with large image circles for lots of movements. Each of these gets about a third of my shooting time also.

The lens I would recommend you get to start with is the 150mm Sironar-S. It's a great general purpose lens, it's not very expensive (compartatively) and you can probably find some on the used market. You can learn with it, and get some great landscape pictures, and a bit of architecture if you can back off quite a ways (won't work well in a big city probably). If you feel you have to start with a wide angle, it's hard to beat the 110 SS-XL. It's got the image circle to give you the movements you need for a lot of architecture and it does great in a landscape setting with the right scenes. But it's expensive (USD 1200+), and seldom seen on the used market.

Once you have either of these lenses, you'll make them a permanent part of your kit (they are that good). And if you decide that LF isn't for you, both are highly sought on the used market - you'll get almost all your money back.

[Frank Petronio]

135mm or 150mm Rodenstock Sironar-N is a nice compact and slightly wide normal lens - hard to beat at $300 or so on eBay. I think it is the best lens to start with.

[Nghi Hoang]

Good morning,

This forum is incredible! Full of awesome people! Many thanks for all your inputs thus far.

Let me elaborate on a bit more on my subject matters. I plan to use the Shenhao for mainly landscape photography, both natural and urban. I live and attend school in San Francisco, a city that just screams "Photograph me!" There is a lot of architecture in this city that I want to photograph and my 35mm and MF equipment does not afford me all the controls that a view camera would. However, my main use of the camera will be for nature landscape photography, where I want to maximize detail and quality for the final output to go on a wall. The Shenhao appears to be perfect for what I want to do. It is not too heavy, compact, and has a lot of movements for a camera of its price range that I can afford being a student and all.

Michael mentioned most common focal lengths used in 35mm. I like the perspectives of the 24mm, 85mm, and 105mm. However, I use all focal lengths with my 35mm Nikon gear, ranging from 17mm to 300mm, to get the composition I like. For MF, I love the 65mm f/4 LA for my RZ67II for all sort of situations, but also like the 110mm and 180mm focal lengths for less extreme angle of view and tighter composition. I did analyze my focal length preference for 35mm and MF, but quickly realize that I don't have an overwhelming favorite focal length for either format. Knowing that it will be a few years before I can make another lens purchase, I want to make the right decision for the kind of photography I plan to do with a view camera. The other reason why I don't plan to purchase a second lens so soon is because I want to use one lens to learn and master my camera as well as LF photography. I want to go slow and deliberate, as this has become my style of photography in the last few years.

After reading some more posts in the forum, it seems that the wide angles make focusing harder and seeing the effects of movements more difficult. I considered the Nikon SW 90 f/8 as one of my choices initially, but that might be unwise.

Mike said that the 150mm is slightly wide for basic exterior architecture. Since 150mm is the normal focal length for LF, equivalent to 50mm in 35mm and 75mm for MF. The times when I used 35mm for architecture, I always find that 50mm is limited and usually go for the 24-35mm focal lengths. For MF, my 65mm f/4 LA rules in this arena. I don't see how 150mm in LF could be wide for architecture. I still have a lot to learn!

John mentioned the way I see the world. My eyes see the world as one huge panoramic photograph. However, I am not going to get a panoramic camera. I just don't want to and like LF better.

It seems the Fujinon 125mm CM-W f5.6 is favorited by a few and that pops out at me. Also the APO-Sironar-N 150mm/5.6. Oh man! I thought I was going insane trying to choose a camera. This is even harder.

Thank you to all of you for helping me with my decision making. I am glad I decide finally to join the LF club. I should have done this a long time ago.

I'm still interested in hearing more inputs.

Regards,

[David Vickery]

I agree with others who are saying that you should start with a 150mm lens. It is as normal and right in the middle of the road as you can get with 4x5. It is the easiest lens for making the compromises that you have to make when you only have one lens(this is not a bad thing at all) and are wanting to photograph a variety of subjects. After you use it for a while and you are ready to make a second purchase, you will know exactly what you want.

[Ralph Barker]

Lots of good suggestions, but I'll add my experience to the pot for you, too.

Like many, I picked up a 90mm/f8 early in my 4x5 experience, intending to use it as my "wide" for landscape. For me, however, the f/8 was too dim, and I had trouble focusing because of that. If you lean toward Nikon lenses, the Nikon SW90/f4.5 would solve that problem. I bought a Schneider 90/5.6. But, these are relatively large, and often physically inconvenient. Plus, the larger aperture 90s are fairly expensive. For not too much more, you could get the 110mm/f5.6 Schneider Super Symmar XL, which is much more compact and is an amazing lens overall.

After getting the 110mm SSXL, my 90 sits in the safe most of the time. I'd say about 80% of what I do on 4x5, which is similar to your preferred subject matter, is done with either the 110mm SSXL or a 210mm Schneider APO Symmar. My 150mm gets almost no use at all.

What might help is to make yourself a framing aid out of a scrap of matte board and a piece of nylon cord. Tie the knots sequentially at various focal lengths, measuring from the surface of the board. The one I've linked to has knots at 65mm, 90mm, 110mm, 150mm, 210mm, and 300mm. Hold the knot to your cheek, close the opposite eye, and what you see through the aperture cut in the board is what the film would see. Carry this around with you for a few days, framing make-believe shots, and you'll get a good idea of which focal lengths will be your favorites - your way of "seeing".

[Armin Seeholzer]

Hi

I would take of course not a 150mm it is just normal and even AA did not like it! I recommend a 90-135mm or at the long end a 210mm, but only you can decide! The 110 mm sounds to me a good compromise!

Good luck!

[Nghi Hoang]

Okie! The Rodenstock APO-Sironar-S 135mm/5.6 is by far the most attractive lens for me right now. It could be considered the wider end of the normal range or the more telephoto end of the wide angle range. I think I have read every beginner lens question on this forum and the ones over at photo.net. It is going to be a bit expensive for my budget, but hopefully I can find it used at Badger or eBay. If not, I will just eat ramen for a few months.