Some questions about crown and super graphics

[BenJT]

Hey guys, I am on the hunt for my first LF camera, I have narrowed it down to either a crown or super graphic due to money, but still have some questions about the functions of the cameras.

The first thing I am wondering is the film to flange distance of the super graphic before you reach the inner focusing rails, the main reason I am concerned with this is because I would like to use a 75mm lens, but if I have to focus it on the inner focusing rails by hand, I think I would rather go for the crown because from what I have read you can focus on the inner rails normally.

The 75mm I am looking at is the fujinon swd 75/5.6 because it has an 85mm film to flange distance, would that allow for any movements on either of these cameras at infinity? Specifically front tilt to increase depth of field in landscapes? Am I better off with a 90mm with a longer film to flange distance so that I have more movements and less headaches focusing the lens? I suppose it wouldn't be that big a deal to give up a little width to have more flexibility with perspective control.

The last thing I am wondering is how to determine which camera includes a fresnel, because from what I have read its beneficial when focusing in dim light, especially if I have the lens stopped down, I'm not sure I am going to see much of an image on the ground glass while trying to focus. I have a loupe so that's covered, but I am nut sure that alone is going to help me focus.

I hope this makes sense, I am trying to figure all this out in my head before making a purchase, and its a bit overwhelming, but I guess that's to be expected when dealing with old cameras.

[Tony Evans]

Ben, there is a Cambo on the FS Forum that would be great starter and handle your 75mm.

[Brian C. Miller]

I can almost precisely answer this question.

OK: I have a Super Graphic, and I have a Nikkor 75mm lens. The 75mm lens is mounted for my Toyo 45AX, which is a close cousin to the Super Graphic. I can focus normally using the 75mm with the Toyo. Now, I did put a 50mm on my Super Graphic, without using a recessed lens board (I don't know if recessed lens boards were ever made for Graflex press cameras), and I could focus it by moving it on the inner rail. Not, it's not convenient like that, but it isn't difficult at all to do it.

Now, for front tilt, I definitely would drop the bed first to make sure it's out of the lens' way. Normally the front standard is then tilted backwards to keep the lens parallel to the film plane. Now you'll have way more than enough front tilt for the foreground.

[Bob Salomon]

"Specifically front tilt to increase depth of field in landscapes? "

Sorry but the only thing that will increase or decrease depth of field is stopping the lens down or opening it up (although you will run in to diffraction when you stop down to far).

Tilting or swinging does not control depth of field. Those movements control the plane of sharp focus. You will still have to stop down when using those movements to increase the depth of field.

[BenJT]

Thanks for answering some of my questions guys, I think I am just going to go with the super and a 90mm. Bob, I understand that stopping the lens down is the only way to increase depth of field when the film and lens are on the same plane, Ive shot with 35mm for years and understand the affects of aperture on depth of field, but doesn't forward tilt (maybe its another movement I'm thinking of, I haven't done any of this yet) bring more of the foreground in focus (even if its just an effect and not a truly greater depth of field)?

[IanG]

"Specifically front tilt to increase depth of field in landscapes? "

Sorry but the only thing that will increase or decrease depth of field is stopping the lens down or opening it up (although you will run in to diffraction when you stop down to far).

Tilting or swinging does not control depth of field. Those movements control the plane of sharp focus. You will still have to stop down when using those movements to increase the depth of field.

That's a touch pedantic Bob, sure the movements control the plane of sharp focus but they also extend the potential depth of focus in images. It's possible with movements to gain greater overall depth of focus in an image with movemernts at at a wider aperture than just by stopping down, and often where stopping down alone would not suffice.

Ian

[Bob Salomon]

Thanks for answering some of my questions guys, I think I am just going to go with the super and a 90mm. Bob, I understand that stopping the lens down is the only way to increase depth of field when the film and lens are on the same plane, Ive shot with 35mm for years and understand the affects of aperture on depth of field, but doesn't forward tilt (maybe its another movement I'm thinking of, I haven't done any of this yet) bring more of the foreground in focus (even if its just an effect and not a truly greater depth of field)?

No, tilts and swings only control the plane of sharp focus. You have to combine them with stopping down to spread the depth of field to get what you want. Look up Scheimpflug (the name for tilts and swings) and you will learn more about it.

[Bob Salomon]

It is not pedantic. It is what tilts and swings do. It isn't difficult and it is easy to learn.

[Neal Chaves]

I have a TRF Crown and cammed lenses of 65, 90, 150 and 210mm. The 65mm f8 Fujinon SW sits on the inner track with the bed dropped and the infinity stops behind the front standard. It will fold up in the case with the stops down and the bellows fully compressed. I had a 58mm Rodenstock mounted like this at one time, but it would not fold inside.

I don't see how a 75mm would be practical because the bed could not be dropped and the front standard would be locked over the joint in the tracks. I think the lens would see the bed. The only way that I see it could be done is by moving the shutter out about 10mm from the front of the lens board, perhaps with a flange and a spacer behind it. The front standard could then sit on the inner tracks with the stops about where they are for my 65mm, and you could cut a RF cam for it.

[Michael_qrt]

I've used a 75mm on a Crown Graphic (top rangefinder) and it works fine with the bed dropped and the front standard on the inner track. As Neal said the bed must be dropped or else it will be in the picture.