Canned gas

[wallrat]

I'm unsure about stop but I know that fixer tolerates oxygen far more than developer which is the most sensitive. I only use Rodinal and PMK Pyro, both of which are 1 shot after mixed and their stock solutions would outlast Cockroaches during the nuclear D-Day. Again, I've had great luck with the evac bottles but I respect everyone's preferences and opinions. The good news, regardless, is that they are cheap to try so you can make your own opinion. It's like asking people what the best film, paper, developer, etc is. You'll find a large number of varying opinions which is good, variety is the spice of life! I'm glad you are getting started Bill and using this wonder resource for what it is!


-Bill

[Bill, 70's military B&W]

Everyone, I really appreciate everyone's input and help. I have never been on a chat room, so this is the closest I've come. This Forum has been great, I've been out with a couple of the members, watching how they do it, pestering them to no end with questions... I feel a lot more confident now. Now if someone could just show me how to make my so-so prints, look good!

Thanks to everyone,
Bill

[EdSawyer]

nitrogen is way cheaper than argon, but argon would work too.

[chuck94022]

I was reading and someone said that stop bath and fixer are not sensitive to oxygen, so that gas displacement or evacuation bottles are not needed. Is that true?
Besides the developer what other chemicals do I need to be guarding against oxygen?

Thanks, Bill

I would not invest a lot in protecting stop bath. It is acetic acid, basically lemon juice or vineger (don't drink it). And anyway, you can substitute water instead of the acetic acid, works just fine. You just need to stop the development process, and using water instead of stop bath seems to be gentler on the film.

Fixer I'd go ahead and protect.

"70's military B&W"? Didn't you run out of shooting opportunities about 40 years ago? ;-)

[AJ Edmondson]

The old process of using glass marbles to displace the liquid to the point of overflow still works well... cheap and environmentally friendly as well. ;- )

[Drew Wiley]

Yeah ... those accordian bottles are kinda cheapo, and the thin walls will pass oxygen.
Might be OK for temporary use. But I never liked them. I use amber glass bottles for anything serious, and pour the chem into smaller bottles if there's too much air. You can
rent a cylinder of argon from welding suppliers, or if you're in the right part of the country, go to your local winemaking supplier (or internet order).

[Bill, 70's military B&W]

I know a couple of Pharmacists, so I'll be asking them about amber bottles. I'm not sure they still get chemicals in bottles like that anymore. I'll find out, if not then where would a good source be? Anything local? I mean from a source that would commonly be in any community. If not then a mail order source.

What about mixing chemicals in the plastic bottle that the distilled water comes in. I know it's not opaque, but if I store it in a cabinet in the DR, that would be a dark cool place. I would not have to clean it, EVER. I can easily squeeze at least a quart of air out of it. Smaller quantities could be put in plastic soda bottles. This disposable plastic system would be the cheapest and easiest system I can think of. What are the negatives of doing it that way?

[John Bowen]

I purchased my amber bottles from Photographers Formulary. They have/had a nice selection of sizes everything from about 2oz to a gallon.

[Bill, 70's military B&W]

John, Photographers Formulary looks like a good source. Prices do not look too bad either. Thanks, Bill

[vinny]

I use wine preserver in the brown cans search amazon.com. The accordian bottles i've thrown out.
I don't worry about air in my pmk or rodianl but do top off my c41 and e6 stuff.