Mounting lens without the original flange~

[Mark Sawyer]

Steel hose clamps could damage the threads on the lens. (I've never seen a steel lens barrel, they're always something softer like brass, aluminum, etc.)

I've posted on using the hose clamp method before, but I always use a rubber gasket (cut from sewer hose connectors) to protect the lens. I also paint the clamps flat black, (these were unpainted to show better in the photo):

[Jim Galli]

I've posted on using the hose clamp method before, but I always use a rubber gasket (cut from sewer hose connectors) to protect the lens. I also paint the clamps flat black, (these were unpainted to show better in the photo):

First Class red neck lens mounting there Mark!

[John Kasaian]

A tank to bowl toilet rubber gasket will work if it doesn't interfere with the light trap. There are a few different IDs with considerbale stretch to them.

[alex from holland]

The lens clamp is the answer for all your missing flanges.
The biggest one holds a dallmeyer 3a without a problem.

http://collodion-art.blogspot.nl/201...ris-clamp.html

[Hermes07]

For those in the UK, I'll happily put in a recommendation for SRB-Griturn - http://www.srb-griturn.com/

They've done a couple of VERY large custom flanges for me on barrel lenses. Be sure to send the lens in so they can get it right.

Like SK Grimes, they're not cheap but for a decent lens it's worth getting a proper flange made. For a cheap lens or a test, one of these normally does me:- http://www.hoses.co.uk/clamps-clips/...ed-clip-m8-m10

[Keith Fleming]

equinoxphotographic.com in Oregon says they have many flanges, but they must have the lens barrel sent to them to ensure proper fitting.

Keith

[mike rosenlof]

I would not do this with a good lens, but I mounted a sort of junky lens in barrel to a sort of junky Technika lens board with JB Weld. Turns out the lens is decently sharp, but still not valuable. Not really recommended, but it does work.

The first photo I made with that same lens was stuck through a too-big (probably no. 3) lensboard and held in with a "retaining ring" made of cardboard. That also worked, but wasn't the most stable or long lasting attachment.

[Mark Sawyer]

First Class red neck lens mounting there Mark!

A real redneck would use duct-tape...

[IanG]

Crude as it might sound I have a 1913 165mm f6.3 Tessar in a Dial-set Compur screwed into a Wooden lens board and locked in place with a touch of matt acrylic paint. The lens will unscrew if I want to remove it and the paint will just peel away leaving no trace.

I've also screwed a lens into th front of a Thornton Pickard Roller blind shutter, again there's no compomising the threads as it's into a paint surface (hard to explain) but it works well. Of course in both cases I'd rather have a flange/retaining ring but the cost of paying someone to make one is more than I paid for the lenses

Mark Sawyer's Jubilee clip option is good but won't work with the lens fitted to the TP shutter, the Tessra is very small and light for a 165mm lens and the daub of paint is more than enough security

Ian

[pierre506]

Measure the threads on the lens barrel/shutter, machine a new flange on a lathe.

Dear Hoegh,
Yep, I asked a technician to machine the new flanges for the lenses I need the shutter.
For instance, the Heliar 360mm, the lens I need the shutter for negative shooting. So it has the machined flange onto Sinar Auto shutter.