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Thread: Return to B&W, some advice needed

  1. #11
    おせわに なります! Andrew O'Neill's Avatar
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    Return to B&W, some advice needed

    I've never ever had any problems with HP5+ in XTOL even when the 1 litre packages were around. HP5+ responds very well in this developer with lots of development latitude, very nice tonalities, and sharp fine grain. Stock solution also keeps very well. It works well straight from the bottle, 1+1, 1+2 and 1+3. Just watch your volumes when diluting the stock. I always make sure I have a minimum of 100ml of stock. I rotary process 4x5 and 8x10 in BTZS tubes. For the past the past 6 months I've been using Pyrocat-HD. HP5+ is lovely in this conconction! Especially stand development! And heaps cheaper!

  2. #12

    Join Date
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    Return to B&W, some advice needed

    I love HC110 @ 1:45 for HP5+ in my Unicolor drum. Stuff lasts for ever in the concentrate form--I use it single shot.

    See here:

    http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/index.html

    And to do a little editing on Hogarth's comment:

    "Covington is nothing if not thorough."

  3. #13

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    Return to B&W, some advice needed

    Due to toxicity I can't use Pyro based developers.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

    The Pyro developers are not as toxic as some of the scare mongers would have you believe. If you buy the PMK in A and B solutions the poweders are already mixed. If you are doing rollfilm in tanks, FP4+ is wonderful in PMK, you need not come in any contact with the solution. If you tray process sheet film as I do wear rubber gloves. I've done it for 26 years.

    steve simmons

  4. #14

    Return to B&W, some advice needed

    I appreciate all the advice given so far.

    As for why I won't use pyro, I live in New York, and my apartment is small. My darkroom also does double duty as a bathroom (although some seem to think believe that it is the otherway around). My concern with pyro is not for myself, but for my child, who spends much more time near the ground (close to the ineveitable spills) than I. If I had a dedicated darkroom, then I would probably try pyro, however at the moment it would be pretty irresponsible of me.

    I have a lot of practice with chemical safety. I am a daguerreotypist, and work with mercury, iodine, and other noxious, corrosive, and stupifying chemicals. I do so in a separate studio, with a fume hood, but alas, no running water. A real danger with many chemicals, especially mercury, is spills. The same goes with pyro. A spill, even a splash will dry and turn back to powder, easily inhaled or (for children) eaten.

  5. #15

    Return to B&W, some advice needed

    Another vote vote HC-110, dilution B, 6 minutes. I recently switched from Rodinal and I don't regret it. This combo is often recommended in 35mm format to minimize grain. I have no experience with the other products. Many people also use DD-X or ID-11 and seem to be satisfied.

    If you're an infrequent user, you'll probably pefer HC-110; it will keep up to five years if you don't dilute it (use it straight, without making a "stock" solution first). If space is limited, the small bottle rather than the "stock" gallon is probably a good practical argument, too.

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