Kerry, I use Adapt-A-Roll 620s and respool exposed film to a 120 spool before sending it to the lab. I have three of them, more by accident than by design. They have a single ridge at the "far" end that mates with a slot in the back of the camera.
Unfortunately people have become aware that they're useful and prices are rising. That's the second-worst thing about them. The worst thing is that frame spacing, although consistent, is very tight.
I also use a Graflex/SubSea RH-8. This is a very late RH-8 made after Graflex closed and sold the tooling to SubSea. I bought it as new old stock, and instantly hated it. 10 exposure (2.25x2.75) carriage with exposure counter that went to 8 (2.25 x 3.0625), and in a 2.25x3.0625 carrier. Bad gears, jammed when I ran scrap film through it to check function. Armatos fixed it, sort of, but I'm reluctant to use it because it still jams from time to time and because its gate, at 3.0625, is shorter than the Adapt-A-Rolls' 3.25. I don't think my disaster is representative of earlier RH-8s, mine seems to have been assembled from randomly selected uninspected parts by people who were, um, somewhere else at the time. Small wonder that SubSea failed.
Frank, how do you think I got a Graflok back for my Speed? I found a $70 Mini Speed with a Pacemaker Graflok, swapped backs between the two cameras, and sold the Mini. There's also a Graflok made specifically for the Mini, with external flash contacts on the upper left and internal flash contacts too. Not what you want for a Pacemaker, even though it will fit.
Now that the secret is out, trashed cameras with usable Grafloks aren't as inexpensive as they used to be. My Mini wasn't trashed, but then I got it 10 years ago.
If you don't need a range finder or a focal plane shutter, your best bet is to get a Century with no RF. Get one with a focusing panel, complete panels are a little scarce.
Cheers,
Dan
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