We need a lot more magnification to see the problem. Take a small portion like the white glacier sections and post an enlarged view and then we can see what you're talking about.Originally Posted by Jack the boatman
We need a lot more magnification to see the problem. Take a small portion like the white glacier sections and post an enlarged view and then we can see what you're talking about.
John Youngblood
www.jyoungblood.com
There is no way to evaluate this image with the information you have provided. The image is scanned in. How did you scan? Is your scanner sharp? What post processing did you do, if any? This image is greatly reduced. There is no way to judge unsharpness from such an image.
You need to do a few things: provide a 100% sample (100% of the scan size - if you scan at 2400 dpi provide an image that gives all the bits, not a reduction) of the area you believe represents the plane of sharpest focus (not some random point in the image, but a point that is in the middle of the focal plane).
Detail all the steps that got you to the posted image ( scanned print? If so, was the print made optically? Was it enlarged or contact print? If a scanned negative, what scanner? What settings? Obviously it was inverted somewhere. What other post processing was done, like levels, curves, sharpening, dodging, burning, gamma correction, etc.? Any Photoshop?)
By the way it a beautiful composition and wonderful light... Sharpness is not the only criterion for a lovely image!
Did you have a tripod leg in the stream? Probably not -- nice image!
Hi,
Thanks again, I am very impressed with the number and quality of replies.
Chuck. See attached. This is a portion of the skyline scanned at 2400 dpi on Epson U1200 scanner as colour negative. Converted to B&W then levels and some contrast added and brightness adjusted.
I have not made a print, I no longer have darkroom facilities, it's only a few years since I chucked out a Durst 9 x 6 enlarger.
I haven't had it printed so far because I was sure that the problem occurred before the scanning stage, perhaps I need to re- consider.
That result is similar to what I get with a similar scanner. If you want to know if the scanner is leaving a lot of detail behind, the cheapest way to test that is to get a drum scan done of that neg? Unless you know someone with a wet darkroom.
I haven't had it printed so far because I was sure that the problem occurred before the scanning stage, perhaps I need to re- consider.
Ok, so in your first post you mention that most images are landscapes with a 1 second exposure. I know you live in a rather windy part of the world, perhaps the problem you are having is bellows or camera vibration caused by the wind? Remember, the bellows are like a big sail that catch the slightest breeze so you have to find ways to protect them (I just stand between the camera and the direction of the wind normally).
I say this assuming that you are able to focus on the ground glass in a way that the image appears sharp on the glass, then you lock down the focus so it will not move. Also, I assume that all other controls are locked down as well so nothing slips.
There are some good videos on view camera operation that might be of interest, I believe Bruce Barlow who is active on this forum has produced a very popular one. You might contact him to obtain a copy.
Also, are you checking the neg with a loup to determine if it is sharp or only by scanning the image? If by scanning, then you better be sure it is not a scanner focus issue.
Hi, Thanks for your reply.
Yes I have checked the negative with a loupe and the negative is soft I believe.
I am aware of the wind problem in this country and I do everything I can to avoid it being an issue.
All the camera controls are tightened before exposure and if possible I shelter the camera.
I am using a relatively light tripod because carrying a monster into some of the places I want to go to is not possible, for me .
Jack
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