Film holders for 8x10, advice please.

[Bill, 70's military B&W]

I have a B&J Grover 8x10, without film holders, back, or working lens/shutter. I've been looking and there is a lot of different types of 8x10 film holders on e-bay.
What are the differences? Which are the ones I need? What/why should I avoid?
Anyone have a GG/back for the camera?

[Ken Lee]

As long as they don't leak, and the slides are not too sticky, they should be pretty much the same with regards to image quality. Some really old ones may have missing spots of black paint inside - avoid those or paint them black again.

Old ones will also tend to have worn tape at the ends, which can be replaced with black "gaffer's tape", a kind of opaque black duct-tape material.

One way to restore smooth movement of dark slides, is with a bit of wax. My 1930's wooden holders work like new after a bit of butcher's wax.

Wooden holders can be lighter than the plastic ones, and their slides made of metal rather than plastic (because the older ones were made before the invention of plastic). Like wooden cameras, they have a nice feeling about them that the plastic ones just don't have.

Try to make sure they still have the little locking pins at the end, which prevents you from pulling out the slide accidentally.

[SMBooth]

If the wooden one are in good shape then I rather have them, the metal light trap along the front doesn't bow like some plastic models.

[cyrus]

They should all fit. Up to 8x10, they're all supposed to be standard. There are some much older holders out there that are not standard but you'll have a hard time finding them. The difference between wood and plastic is a personal preference. I like the wooden ones because they don't generate static electricity and thus don't attract dust. Looks better on an old camera like yours too.

[E. von Hoegh]

If the wooden one are in good shape then I rather have them, the metal light trap along the front doesn't bow like some plastic models.

Not only does the trap not bow, but it can be disassembled to renew the velvet if neccessary and also to remove the dust which accumulates there. I have a set of 8 old Folmer/Kodak holders, they're all I've used since moving to 8x10.

[TheDeardorffGuy]

I like wood over plastic anyday. Mine all have the metal top caps. I use lemon pledge on the darkslides but not before I blow out the slot where the Dark Slide fits. And not with a "dust off" type sprayer. 150PSI of filtered air used in my machine shop. You may have to go to a service station and ask the mechanic. The air compressor I have was the best purchace I ever made. My oldest holder is from 1938.

[John Kasaian]

The black wood ones saying "Graflex made for Eastman Kodak" are fine, so are the wood Agfa/ Anscos but I like the Kodaks better because of the plate on the light trap. I also like Liscos for plastic versions. Basically if a film holder works--it works and if it doesn't, it goes in the cannibal box for rebuilding or parts. I like the idea of getting a stack of used holders from a reputable dealer such as Jim at Midwest who will swap out any "leakers" they might have indvertantly sent you---in the long run thats usually going to be a better deal than ebay.
Hinges can be retaped, dark slides can be lubed with wax or replaced, locking ells can be replaced, even black plastic can be repaired with epoxy. There are lots of things you can do to put a sad film holder back in action (with my twisted brain, I actually enjoy the challenge of resurrecting Frankenstein film holders) but it is simpler just to send it back for a replacement. A small shop vac dedicated to your photo gear is a valuable accessory for keeping you holders dust free as are zip-lock plastic storage bags (IIRC the 1.5 or 2 gallon size---it's been awhile since I bought any---Walmart usually has them) will fit 8x10 holders, the more common 1 gallon size are too small.

[jose angel]

I have a Graflex wooden one in one hand, a current plastic Lisco in the other.
As far as they are in good shape, I`d say it doesn`t matter. I wonder if the wooden one is lighter. It is a bit thicker. The finishing quality looks the same. The metal top is slightly bow in one side, (the plastic one on both sides -not affecting performance-). Mine has the inner paint scratched, so I`m keeping it for spares.
If the holder is in good shape, I`d not care if wood or plastic. It`s true that good wooden ones are "special".

[Bill, 70's military B&W]

Thanks everyone for your input. I'll keep my eyes open, esp for wood ones.
I do not think I'd need all that many. How many is enough? Still need a back for that 8x10 B&J Grover.

[John Kasaian]

The black wood ones saying "Graflex made for Eastman Kodak" are fine, so are the wood Agfa/ Anscos but I like the Kodaks better because of the plate on the light trap. I also like Liscos for plastic versions. Basically if a film holder works--it works and if it doesn't, it goes in the cannibal box for rebuilding or parts. I like the idea of getting a stack of used holders from a reputable dealer such as Jim at Midwest who will swap out any "leakers" they might have indvertantly sent you---in the long run thats usually going to be a better deal than ebay.
Hinges can be retaped, dark slides can be lubed with wax or replaced, locking ells can be replaced, even black plastic can be repaired with epoxy. There are lots of things you can do to put a sad film holder back in action (with my twisted brain, I actually enjoy the challenge of resurrecting Frankenstein film holders) but it is simpler just to send it back for a replacement. A small shop vac dedicated to your photo gear is a valuable accessory for keeping you holders dust free as are zip-lock plastic storage bags (IIRC the 1.5 or 2 gallon size---it's been awhile since I bought any---Walmart usually has them) will fit 8x10 holders, the more common 1 gallon size are too small.

I just took a peek and the size ziplocks that'll fit 8x10 holders are 2.5 gallon, Hefty brand.