I use bleach diluted 1:1. It strips a bit slower but isn't so potent as to potentially seep into the other side and start eating away that emulsion as well. I generally don't even tape my film down anymore, I just brush on the bleach and rinse it off as I go, and have no problem.
Here's my secret for you. There is no ISO set for Green or Blue Xray film. For its exposure it's all depending on UVA and AVB index . If you wear transition glasses then you will understand what i'm talking about how your glasses change according to the UV index. Green is sensitive to the green light and Blue is to the Blue light . Google the color UV spectrum chart so you can have better idea how this film react to the light depending time of the day.
I'm using 90% of the Xray film from 8x10 to 14x17 for my workflow. The film produced amazing tone, details and plenty contrast for my Platinum and Carbon work.
So if you wear prescription glasses please don't forget to mention to your Optometrist about the transition lenses ( chose the Grey ). You can use them as a Xray exposure guide line . Good luck!
BTW , I have never metered my exposure with Xray film , the rest will take care through develop by inspection.
I think I'll stick with metering for exposure... I can't afford transition glasses
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I've shot my green x-ray film at 25 and 80 and gotten great results. Generally the film is not as sharp as the traditional stuff but if you are into soft focus images you can get some extra help. Develop in the red light and develop to you final printing process. It is really easy if you take the time to learn. Spend some time with it then you will know what it does and does not do. It is cheap so experiment.
This is a portrait of my son shot on x-ray film, green, printed in carbon.
As Jim said develop in the red light. It's true! because the red light is at the bottom of the UV spectrum chart so the green or the blue Xray does not affected .
Your eye is the most important. You should protect them from UV at no cost in early age to avoid cataract surgery later. An advise from a fellow carbon printer .Originally Posted by Andrew O'Neill
I think I'll stick with metering for exposure... I can't afford transition glasses
Last edited by Tri Tran; 14-Jan-2013 at 20:44.
Agreed. But I don't require spectacles yet and when the sun does shine (which it rarely does up here, especially this time of year), I wear a good pair of UV protective sun glasses.Your eye is the most important. You should protect them from UV at no cost in early age to avoid cataract surgery later. An advise from a fellow carbon printer .
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You can pick up a 7 watts light bulb or night light bulb from Home Depot and spray paint it . That should work!
If I was I, I would first develop one sheet with the lights on, just to see how your film reacts to the chemicals you are using. It is an amazing experience.
You will find lots of different stories people tell throughout the web. Lots of people say these films are soft. Lots of people say you HAVE to strip the backside emulsion.
What I found out is that some of these films are very different from what we are used to.
A few things I learned so far:
I would avoid all MQ developers.
I would avoid all developers containing Sodium Carbonate with mammo film.
I would start at ISO 400 for most T-grain double-sided X-ray films and ISO 200 for the others double-sided.
I would try Rodinal @ 1:100 or Obsidian Acqua.
I would agitate once every 2 minutes at the most.
Softness appears on some highlights due to halation.
Softness all over may be from overexposure.
Expansions are easy.
Contractions usually lead to softness.
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