This just in...
Your “correct” exposure, once determined, can be achieved w/ a range of different shutter speed/aperture combinations.
Come now, did you really think you could just take a shot?
This just in...
Your “correct” exposure, once determined, can be achieved w/ a range of different shutter speed/aperture combinations.
Come now, did you really think you could just take a shot?
... but then, after you've determined your correct exposure, you must set about determining the optimum aperture.
Then, if that results in a shutter speed you don't like, you set about compromising. Or if it is a really long exposure time, you set about calculating reciprocity failure adjustments. And then...
Doremus
...you discover that you need to compensate for that #25 filter. And then...
--P
Preston-Columbia CA
"If you want nice fresh oats, you have to pay a fair price. If you can be satisfied with oats that have already been through the horse; that comes a little cheaper."
... Don't forget to factor in your bellow draws since you're taking a macro shot of a penny. And then...?!
I got my start in film photography in the '80s with an olympus OM-10 which had two modes: Aperture priority or flash sync. (variations in exposure could be achieved by adjusting the film speed dial). Since then, I've thought to set the aperture first, then consider other variable, and then have a shutter speed. The next item of influence was a vivitar 285hv flash (on a Nikon f4s), with an auto exposure system where you set the aperture, and it's sensor would make sure you had properly exposed flash lit photos; Another "set the aperture first" system. Couldn't afford the Nikon flash after buying the camera and a couple lenses.
Now, in LF, I am thinking about aperture related things like depth of field for normal lenses or softness for SF lenses. Then with other things considered (filters, slow shutters, developer speed loss, bellows), I set the shutter speed as a result of computations rather than as possible input for exposure choices.
My sekonic l208 lightmeter validates Heroique's reminder. All those settings might result in properly exposed film, but not the image I want. I suppose I might be more reminded of the basic theory of exposure if I used an EV-based medium format camera, but I don't.
What is an "EV-based medium format camera?"
I started with a Pentax 6x7 and a Pentax V spot meter. (Still have both, still use both.) Anyways, the camera has shutter speeds, and the lens has the aperture. No EV meter.
Meter the scene, set the dial, make a choice, set the camera and lens, and fire the shutter. KA-CHUNK! (Of course, it was brightly sunny on Sunday, I was photographing a flowering bush and some other stuff, so I just used sunny-f/16.)
Maybe someone should make yet another shut-off-your-brain phone application to display EV, along with a range of shutter and aperture settings. And include settings for old lenses, too.
"It's the way to educate your eyes. Stare. Pry, listen, eavesdrop. Die knowing something. You are not here long." - Walker Evans
Some older cameras had a way to lock the shutter speed and aperture selection together so that a range of combinations could be selected for any given exposure value. The Rolleiflex MX-EVS is an example--it was the version of the Rolleiflex available in the mid-to-late 50's.
I also have a Rodenstock Ysarex in a Polaroid shutter that had a similar EV-based selection feature.
Rick "who prefers plain-old-aperture and shutter speed" Denney
My Gossen and my Weston meters give EV. I've always selected aperture to suit the scene, except when moving objects are a factor.
I guess meters with digital readouts give a single combo of aperture and shutter speed? If so, I've found yet another reason to retain my 50 year old meters. (smiling smiley)
One man's Mede is another man's Persian.
One of my requirements in replacing my Minolta Spot F after its untimely demise was an EV readout and a calculation dial, which is much easier for me for Zone System applications. I found the Sekonic L-488 spot meter, which will output in EV. Unlike the ISO100-only output of the Pentax Spot V, which requires an extra wheel in the calculation dial for film speed, the Sekonic has a film speed setting so that it reads EV for the film speed in use. That makes for a simpler calculation dial, but enough of one to support my requirements.
It will also output in camera settings, but I'm like you. I select aperture on the basis of the look I want, and shutter speed on the basis of the time element in the photo. Then I compromise both as necessary (which may involve filters) to achieve a correct exposure.
Rick "wondering how many of the younger set don't realize that reciprocity exists except at long exposures, which should correctly be called reciprocity failure" Denney
Bookmarks