In praise of Divided Pyrocat

[Ken Lee]

Oh - That would explain the difference between merely swishing something around here and there, and really rotating it.

[Andrew O'Neill]

I have found for myself it is a real gamble when developing in a tray, unless you agitate really vigorously, splashing developer all over the place. With rotary (BTZS), I always get great results (no mottling) and I don't have to use nearly as much stock solutions compared to tray development.

[sanking]

I have found for myself it is a real gamble when developing in a tray, unless you agitate really vigorously, splashing developer all over the place. With rotary (BTZS), I always get great results (no mottling) and I don't have to use nearly as much stock solutions compared to tray development.

All of my original testing of the Pyrocat developers was done with BTZS type rotary development, rolling the tubes in a water bath. It works beautifully with regular Pyrocat single solution dilutions. I have actually never tested it with divided Pyrocat, but plan to do so soon. In theory it should work since the method of introducing Solution B is very sudden, virtually instantaneous.

I met Phil Davis in the 1980s when he did a couple of of the BTZS workshops at the university where I taught. He mentioned in one of our conversations that rotary type development was the only type that allowed for consistency and even development needed with BTZS testing. Jobo would do the trick, but in BTZS testing you develop test film exposed the same for different times in order to derive the densities needed to plot curves, so the only practical system was tubes, rolled in a water bath. He used a number of different prototypes for the tubes, including one set made from stainless steel. One of my friends owns a few of these SS tubes, very beautiful work.

Sandy

[Ken Lee]

I have found for myself it is a real gamble when developing in a tray, unless you agitate really vigorously, splashing developer all over the place. With rotary (BTZS), I always get great results (no mottling) and I don't have to use nearly as much stock solutions compared to tray development.

Just to be clear, have you found all developers to be a gamble when developing in a tray, or only certain kinds ?

[Joe Forks]

I've been doing 12x20 in trays but I'm considering trying a piece of 4" PVC on a unicolor base. Is this going to work or be a problem?

Not sure exactly how to go about it. I guess glue the cap on one side, but what about the other? It seems to get the cap tight enough
to keep from leaking, it's impossible to get off. Maybe I need a screw cap on the opposite end but did not see one at the home depot
I visited yesterday.

Anyone else using either home made tubes or PVC for large sheet film?

Thanks in advance.

[Kevin J. Kolosky]

So which is the winner, Divided Pyrocat or Diafine?

[richardman]

I have only tried Diafine on 35mm, not enough sure on 120/220. Any case, Diafine "pushes" Tri-X so if you need to shoot at 1200 ISO, Diafine is your developer.

I just have more 4x5 Acros souped in 2-bath Pyrocat. Looks delicious / great / whatever

[Ben Calwell]

That's a beautiful photograph. You're not from this planet, are you.

[Joe Forks]

In the book of pyro Hutchings says that is how you agitate. If you are not splashing the agitation is too gentle.

I have found for myself it is a real gamble when developing in a tray, unless you agitate really vigorously, splashing developer all over the place. With rotary (BTZS), I always get great results (no mottling) and I don't have to use nearly as much stock solutions compared to tray development.

[Ed Bray]

I tried divided Pyrocat HD today for the first time. I used 1:20 for Solution A (with 4 drops of wetting agent) and 40 grams of Sodium Carbonate in 800mls of water for Solution B (PH was 11.4) I processed 6 sheets of 5x7 in my 3005 expert drum on the CPP2 for the following: 5 minutes pre soak, 6 minutes Solution A, 6 minutes Solution B (at max rotary speed), 2x 30 sec washes, TF-3 Alkaline Fix for 5 minutes, 14x 30 second 500ml washes before soaking for 2 minutes in a tray of water/wetting agent.

Negatives drying as I type, but at first glance they look very nice.