I would like to ask all the tray developing gurus if they have found in practice a preference for finger grooves or raised ridges on the bottom of their dev trays. This in regards scratching and or controlling the negatives.
otzi
I would like to ask all the tray developing gurus if they have found in practice a preference for finger grooves or raised ridges on the bottom of their dev trays. This in regards scratching and or controlling the negatives.
otzi
Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure... Life is either daring adventure or nothing: Helen Keller.
What size negatives? If you are asking about 4x5 then the best thing I have found for tray developing is the Summitek Cradle.
I have found that trays with raised ridged work best for me. I process one sheet at at time, face up, and never get scratches on the film. I have, however, made sure that there are no sharp micro pimples on the molded ridges that would injure the film by using a piece of 600 grit emery paper on a flat board so as to block sand them and lightly touching the ribs, then polish them with #0000 steel wool. Works for me.
I second raised ridges for 4x5 and 5x7. I also glued some stops so to divide the trays on five slots, each negative being alone on its own. This way I keep control of different development times, avoid scratchs and play safe on evenness.
Trays with ridges work best.
Also if you have the room you might want to make a processing panel:
http://philbard.com/panel.html
John V.
ScanHi-End Moderator
"Also if you have the room you might want to make a processing panel"
The Summitek Cradle I mentioned is a processing panel like Johnny mentioned only it is a finished product sold by Summitek. I've been using one for several months on 4x5 and it works great..
www.summitek.com
BTW, has anyone here ever built a 16x20 processing panel for developing 4 8x10's at once? I've been thinking of trying one and would be interested in hearing anyones experiences with one they have built.
Mike, I built a panel to hold 2 8x20's and it works great. I don't see any reason one for 8x10's wouldn't work equally well. Let me know if you have any questions.
I used both types of trays when I did 8x10 and they were equally adept at scratching negatives. I switched to BTZS tubes and they were terrific - no scratches ever, no standing around in the dark for ten or fifteen minutes, no chemical fumes. They are expensive but if you're only doing a couple negatives at a time the expense isn't too bad. Some people successfully make their own duplicates of the BTZS 4x5 tubes but I think 8x10 is harder. I tried for quite a while and never could successfully devise a method of quickly getting the top off while having it tight enough to keep the chemicals inside. I spent about $50 on this futile effort and could just about have bought a good BTZS tube from The View Camera Store for that price.
Brian Ellis
Before you criticize someone, walk a mile in their shoes. That way when you do criticize them you'll be
a mile away and you'll have their shoes.
I like my trays that have smooth indented grooves instead of raised ridges. I have use both kinds. The smooth grooves allow your fingers to go under the sheet of film for lifting. I think mine are Patterson, but I'm not sure. At any rate, the tray bottom should be very smooth. I use 8x10 trays for a batch of 4x5 negs, say 2 to 6.
Avoid raised dimples trays with emulsion side down development of sheet films. When the emulsion side rubs over those during agitation ever so lightly, they put a permanent streak over your sheet and subsequent prints. (From experience)
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