I was in Monument Valley in September 1997 with another photographer friend. We simply hired a guide for an afternoon to take just us around. He took us all over the place and stopped at all the main spots. If we wanted to shoot, we simply got out and our guide tell us the signficance of what we were shooting. So, our experience was completely positive. At the end, we gave our guide an extra tip for doing such a great job. I didn't get his name. We just made it clear what we wanted and got what we asked for.
I plan on going back next fall, and I will look up the names given above though - just in case I was unusually lucky back in '97.
And the camping facilities at Goulding do have showers.
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