Some questions about processing T-Max 100 4x5 sheets

**Bob._3483** · 26-Nov-2003, 08:41

I use a Jobo CPE for the consistent temp/agitation it gives, however, the rest applies:

I use ID-11 1:1 rather than the T-Max developer as from my reading a lot of people find it difficult to control (but of course, you will also find many who swear by it) and because I am used to ID-11. It is a powder (which of course lasts forever) and I mix up 1 litre's worth a few hours before hand (it needs to cool down - you mix it at 40 degC.) to ensure I always have fresh developer. If you do not want to bother mixing powders, you might look at Rodinal which is a liquid concentrate and lasts months in undiluted stock form. You are correct about the wine/developer oxidisation problem. The same solutions apply: remove the oxygen as much as possible (I take a deep breath, hold it as long as I can and then breath into the part-filled bottle and wack the top on - very little oxygen left after holding your breath for 2 minutes - and cheap!)....

I also use citric acid based (low odour) indicator stop and a low-odour non-hardening fixer - this is particularly a good idea if you are using trays unless you have VERY good ventilation in your darkroom. Stop bath is just a dilute acid - any will do. Same with fixer: it all does the same job (some people have preferences for hardening/non-hardening & acid/alkaline based) - just follow the maker's directions with regard to dilution and time for film.

Washing times are not excessive for film so I do not bother with hypo clear.

I do use wetting agent (hard water area - lots of suspended minerals in my water (given the amount of junk-food I eat, the water probably constitutes my main intake of essential vitamins and minerals!)). Some people prefer to give a final rinse with distilled water instead.

I do not squeegee - I am not opposed to it in principle, just do not find it necessary after using wetting agent and the less that touches the emulsion, the happier I am (non-hardening fixer remember...).

Have fun. Cheers,

**John Kasaian** · 28-Nov-2003, 08:21

Rory,

FWIW, I've had very good results with TMAX in TMAX RS in a Unicolor Processor(about $30-40 on Ebay) as long as all the liquids are at the same temperature. I set all the chemicals and a jug of distilled water out an hour before I start so they all reach the same temperature. With the short times because of the continuous agitation of the Unicolor and no hands in the soup to warm things up, I find the tempertures stay consistant enough for excellent results with TMAX --------Good Luck!

**David A. Goldfarb** · 28-Nov-2003, 08:31

I've processed a fair amount of TMX 8x10" in trays in D-76 (1+1) and found it not too hard to work with. It's not my first choice anymore (I've come to prefer the tonality of Tri-X, Efke PL100, and for certain kinds of portraits I like what remains of my stock of Ektapan), but if you like TMX, there's no reason not to use it. I'd recommend starting with four sheets at a time until you get your shuffling technique under control, and then increase the number of sheets slowly from there. You'll know when you've reached your limit.

John Sexton processes TMX in trays using "slosher" or frame that holds four sheets or some such. Go to lfphoto.info, and you can read his article on processing TMX.