Some questions about processing T-Max 100 4x5 sheets

[Rory_3532]

I plan to process T-Max 100 4x5 sheet film. I'm going to start with a light-tight room and trays. If the tray system proves unsuitable, I will try something else. But for the moment, I plan to use trays. Processing will be low volume, perhaps 12 sheets in groups of three (the result of bracketing) spread over each month. Some questions:

Developer: Kodak has a liquid concentrate developer specifically for T-Max film. Is there any reason why I should use the powder developers EXTOL or D-76.

Stop Bath: Is there any difference between Kodak Indicator and Kodak EKTAFLO stop baths? Both are liquid concentrates. For my expected volume, should I care whether there is an indicator or should I just use an acid/water combination?

Fixer: Kodak recommends Kodak Rapid Fixer, a liquid concentrate, for T-Max. I assume that this recommendation is connected to the statement that "with T-Max Professional Films, fixer will be exhausted more rapidly than with other films." If my assumption is correct, and if I am not doing volume and am not in a hurry, is there any reason why I should use, in preference, Kodak Fixer (powder) or KODAFIX Solution (liquid)?

Water Wash: Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent appears to shorten washing time from 20-30 minutes to five minutes. Is there any reason not to use it?

Wetting Agent: Kodak recommends Foto-Flo Solution to minimize water marks and streaks during drying. Does it really make a difference?

General Points: I'd like to keep the number of chemical solutions down to what is really necessary or useful.

Kodak, in Technical Paper CIS-49, entitled Preparing Smaller-Than-Package-Size Amounts of Kodak Processing Chemicals, raises two issues about small-batch processing. The first is that the partial use of a bottle of liquid concentrate raises an oxyidation problem (sounds very much like the problem of what to do with a partially consumed bottle of wine). The second is that the partial use of a packet of powder may result in a failure to use the powder in a completely homogeneous manner. Both problems sound serious. However, the paper speaks only of colour chemicals. Are there similar problems with Black and White chemicals and, if so, is this a factor in choosing between liquid concentrate and powder?

Tomorrow, I plan to ask some questions about processing of contact prints. I have not included those questions here because my brain is still utter mush from reading about the subject and, in particular, the various papers available.

As should be evident from the foregoing, I have never before processed film. Thanks for any comments.

[Robert A. Zeichner]

If T-max developer is what you want to use, the T-Max developer you need is the RS type. It is different from the concentrate you would use to process roll film. I would suggest making a slosh tray for development of up to 4 sheets at a time in an 8x10 tray. I've been doing this for years with great success. My developer preference is for Ilfotec HC which is virtually identical to Kodak HC-110. It has proven to be very reliable and predictable and I've been very satisfied with the the grain characteristics. There really isn't any critical need for stop bath as a plain water bath works just fine. I lift the slosh tray out of the developer about 15 seconds before the development time is up to let it drain. I then submerge into the water and agitate for a few seconds, drain and immerse in fixer. I use Ilford Universal fix for both film and paper (different dilutions). It works great. No real need for a hardening fix as the film is a lot more robust than film used to be. Without the hardener, I find toning the negative works much faster as well, when toning is called for. I've been using Heico wash aid at a dilution of 3/4 oz per quart. A minute in the solution will require about 5 minutes of wash. I use a "Gravity Works" washer and love it. 2 drops of PhotoFlo per 8 oz of water will be just enough to wet the film and prevent streaks. At that rate an 8 oz bottle will last a lifetime. One of the things I like about the developer is that 1 oz will make a quart of working solution and I've been able to process 12 sheets in that quart without problem. The concentrate keeps very well. I think I've used it without incident over an 8 month period. Everyone has their own favorites and I don't suggest that this is the only way to fly. The important thing is to find a combination of tools you are comfortable with and stick to it until you have a good reason to start experimenting. Good luck to you in your LF endeavors.

[Steve J Murray]

Hi Rory,

I've done a lot of tray processing. Let me give you some ideas. 4 sheets at a time in 8x10 trays sounds good for someone just getting the hang of it. I would practice on some test shots to get familiar with handling the film in and out of the trays. You might look up some techniques for tray development on this site before you start.

I would recommend D-76 diluted 1:1 as a one shot developer. Its good for at least a couple of months in partially full bottles. The dilution makes for a slightly longer development time, which is good with tray development, because its easier to get even development with longer times. D-76 mixes easily following the directions. I've mixed dozens of gallons of D-76 without any problems. I simply haven't used T-Max developer, so I can't comment on it.

Acid stop is fine as a one shot and cheaper than indicator stop.

Use Kodak Rapid fix or Ilford Fix with T-Max.

I like Perma Wash, which is also a good one shot hypo wash agent. It comes as a liquid concentrate, so you don't have another powder to mix.

I have pretty clean water out of the tap, so I get by with a couple drops of Photo-flo. Many people use distilled water as a final rinse and don't use Photo-flo at all.

Just a word of advice. There is a learning curve to handling film in trays and getting a consistent process. Take your time. Do test shots until you feel your process is consistent. You will begin to get a feel for the development times that give you the negs that print well for you.

Have fun!

[neil poulsen]

TMax is sensitive to changes in temperature. You want to keep the temperature as constant as possible. For example, you can use a water bath to maintain a constant temperature.

[MIke Sherck]

I process all of my sheet film in trays and T-Max 100 (or the new "100 TMX") is what I use most of. I've tried it in TMax liquid developer, TMax RS, D-76, and HC-100 and I prefer TMax RS. Other folks will prefer other developers; it's a very subjective thing. TMax RS can be handled easily, per an article from a couple of years ago or so in View Camera magazine: use two 1-quart bottles and mix part A with enough water to make 1 qt. in the first bottle, and part B with enough water to make 1 qt. in the second bottle. Both parts remain stable for many months this way. To use, mix equal quantities of liquid from each bottle and dilute the combination 1:1 with water. Works great! I've never been a big fan of powdered developers: mixing takes longer and there's the issue of chemical dust to deal with. Using liquid chemicals avoids all that, and is more convenient too.

I've always used Kodak's indicator stop bath so I can't comment on other stuff. Just force of habit and no real reason to change: it's dirt cheap and lasts forever. I work for a company which mixes volatile hydrocarbons to manufacture our product, so frankly I don't find indicator stop bath's odor terribly objectionable, or even noticable. Again, other people have other opinions and everything I've heard about using plain water in place of stop bath seems to indicate that it works just fine.

I use Ilford's liquid fixer per their directions and only run about half as much film through it as they recommend before dumping it and mixing fresh when I'm processing TMax. Works fine and any of the infamous Tmax magenta residual stain comes off in the wash. I used to use Kodafix liquid (without the hardener,) and didn't notice any difference at film strength. I use Ilford now because it's a bit less expensive at my local photo store.

Definately use a hypo clearing solution: it saves a lot of time washing both film and prints. I use Orbit Bath but I don't think there's much difference between any of them. I also use Kodak's wetting solution (Foto-Flo or whatever they call it -- I've had two bottles for years; you only need a few drops at a time) and it definately makes a difference with my hard water. Without it I get stains and spots, with it I don't. Easy choice.

Good luck!

Mike

[John Cook]

Everyone has a favorite film. I sure don’t want to get sidetracked by opening that can of worms. But I think everyone would agree that T-Max is difficult to work with and therefore not the best choice to begin with. I’d recommend Tri-X or any conventional film from Ilford. Efke is beautiful but has an emulsion almost too delicate for multiple-sheet tray developing. Wait until your technique is better.

Speaking of developing hardware, take a look at the excellent article on the other side of this site by Eugene Singer, the Texas Sage:

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/alternative-developing/

Developer: If you use something other than T-Max, your developer choices will increase. You can spend the rest of your life experimenting with obscure concoctions. But nothing beats Tri-X and D-76. The Grand Old Standard.

Stop: Ilfostop has no objectionable odor. Kodak’s indicator stop will take your breath away like ammonia.

Fixer: Most modern films are sufficiently tough that they no longer require hardening fixer. Ilford rapid fixer can be used in the same concentration for both film and paper. One less jug.

Hypo Clear: Will speed up washing of double-weight, fiber-base paper. Not necessary with film fixed in the above rapid fixer. One less jug.

Wetting Agent: Yes, it makes a difference. Ilford says squeegee. Many fine photographers don’t. (I do)

Package Size: I have gone back to using ID-11 (or D-76, same thing) for film and Bromophen for paper. Both are shipped as powder. Won’t boil in hot truck in summer, won’t freeze in winter. Both have nearly infinite shelf life in dry state. Both come in one-liter packages. Enough ID-11 (diluted) for five runs in the above Combi tanks.

Don’t take my word for this. Take a gander at all the pdf’s on the Ilford site. Hundreds of pages. A complete photo course, straight from the factory chemists:

http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/bw.html

[steve simmons]

I like tray processing but I think T-Max is not a good choice for that process. T-Max is VERY sensitive to changes in agitation and temeperature. I would pick a film like Tri-X, FP4+ or HP5+ or one of the Bergger films. They are much more tolerant of the inherent variation that willhappen in trays. You can still do the plussing and minussing in trays - I have done so for 20+ years.

My method of using trays is described in an article on the view camera magazine web site

www.viewamera.com

hit the link for free articles along the top black menu bar.

steve simmons

[Rory_3532]

I really appreciate the responses. They are very helpful. On the choice of film, I'm using a Kodak Readyload holder, which in turn dictates the use of T-Max. The Readyload holder is so convenient, especially when travelling, that I'll just have to try to adjust to any T-Max eccentricities. Maybe if I learn to deal with the film's sensitivity to temperature, I'll have an easier time of it when I try processing some Portra

[Paul Kierstead]

Hypo Clear: Will speed up washing of double-weight, fiber-base paper. Not necessary with film fixed in the above rapid fixer. One less jug.



OK, take this with a grain of salt because I am new LF, but I have been processing TMAX 100 in BTZS tubes (which is different, I will admit) and I cannot get the magenta sensitizing dye out in a reasonable period using rapid fixer. We are not talking about the anti-halation coat (which is a known problem with BTSZ tubes). I fix in Kodak rapid fixer for about 10 minutes and they are still quite magenta. However, 2-3 minutes in Hypo-clear eradicates it very quickly and with a 5 minute wash there is absolutely no trace. This is confirmed behaviour of TMAX from other postings as well. YMMV.

[Gene M]

I presoak in water for a minute. I use HC-110 dil. B for Five. I use a water stop bath and finish in alkaline fixer for 5 minutes. I soak the negatives in Orbit to remove the purple dye (it's tough stuff) and wash in running water for 5 minutes.