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Thread: Pyro and the newbie.

  1. #21

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    115

    Pyro and the newbie.

    I've been trying PMK with Bergger 4x5 for about 8 months, by loading one side of each holder with Bergger and the other with my standard Tri-X, which gets developed in HC110, and making identical shots on the two films, then proofing them together. Both are developed to print normally on grade 2 Seagull. Both combinations contact print / proper proof equally well. The BFP/PMK combo does have slightly smaller grain, and the midtones are about a half zone lighter than with the TXP/HC110.

    Neither combination has any problems with grain up to 11x14. Prints made of identical scenes do look different in a way that's hard to describe. The Tri-X prints look more 'real'; the BFP/PMK prints have kind of a daydream quality to them. The difference is subtle.

    Personally I find the PMK harder to work with than HC110. In my experience, PMK negs are more prone to pinholes, fingerprints, scratches and uneven development. I think my technique is part of the problem; I like to develop at least 12 sheets at once in a tray, and I think that's too many for PMK. Maybe also Tri-X is tougher than Bergger, I don't know. Eventually I'll try the other two combinations too.

    My recommendation is Tri-X in HC110. Tri-X is fast, has great gradation, responds well to contrast control, and is easily available. HC110 is very easy to use, relatively safe, and keeps well. If you do a speed test and good development time tests, this is an excellent combination in my humble opinion.

  2. #22

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    san jose, ca
    Posts
    149

    Pyro and the newbie.

    There is always a compromise...

    W2D2+ on Classic200... Easy to use, safe when handled correctly, no more complicated than using D76 except you make a prebath up. On Agfapan 100, amazing results, but alas, no more Agfapan Sheetfilm, no postbath like with PMK. Water stop and TF-4 for a fixer.

    As John said, almost bulletproof. No blown out highlights, great shadow detail, your biggest problem will be printing the incredable range of tones each negative gives you.

    Handling is always crucial, if you tray process, always use gloves, always flush well with water, always clean up every piece of equipment used. The developer lasts forever (it seems) in opened containers.

    tim in san jose

  3. #23

    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    390

    Pyro and the newbie.

    Thanks folks. I will be giving pyro a try when I get a few negs from the 5x7 to play with.

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