That doesn't work that well, as the stitches are unlikely to match exactly. While you could write a script to have Photoshop align the layers, my guess is that it's be better to do the HDR first, and then do the stitching. That's what's done with many HDR panoramas. All of this is assuming that we need HDR. With bw, it might not be needed unless one let density get out of control.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
re: HDR
Would HDR really be necessary? Negative film has a really shallow curve, doesn't it, with that huge dynamic range spread very thin? I seem to remember looking at the curves for TMAX in Leslie Strobel's book and on Kodak's info sheets, and thinking that a huge range was captured in a really modest curve.
I could see slide film being a problem, but for the fact that most slide film did not have a dynamic range of greater than 6 or 7 stops, and most DSLRs can do 9 to 13 stops. (Admittedly the way dynamic range is defined on film vs on sensors is different, but...)
The question with bw film will be the noise characteristics in the shadows. I expect it'll be fine with one exposure with standard contrast film, but if the shadows get too noisy, multiple exposures could help. Color films, though, would probably benefit from multiple exposures.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
bump. get on this people. I'm not smart enough to help.
Yeah is it done yet? I got $300 in PayPal for it. WTF, getrdone!!!
It's funny, Justin and I were just talking about developing something like this as a Wanderlust Cameras project.
It would be 4x5 at first, due to leverage on the rails—an 8x10 version would need to be much larger and heavier.
It would be fully manual. If you've ever used the LCD and button interface on the GigaPan, you'll know why... It's just too fiddly, and 4x5 wouldn't require enough frames to warrant automation. And if you want to do HDR (only necessary for slide film) or supersampling to reduce noise, you don't have to reprogram anything.
In general terms, it would be a specialized XYZ macro rail system with detents, manufactured from an overkill of solid aluminum. You bring the light source (maybe we'd make one), camera and lens. So in five years, you can upgrade the camera for even better resolution.
It's crazy that people are paying $4000 for Coolscans. Anyone could contract a system like I've described above, and retail it for under $250. If no one does it in the next year or two, Justin and I will do it...
OK, let me see if I have this straight:
1. Motorized X-Y table over light table
2. Camera mount
3. Computer control of X-Y and camera
There isn't anything here that's complex. The user supplies the light table according to the need. The XY table goes over the light table at Z height. The computer controls camera position, focus, exposure and shutter. A big black box covers it to keep out light and dust.
Done.
4x5, 8x10, 11x14, 16x20, 20x24, freakin' huge whatever. Same basic table hardware. An Arduino controller ($60) with USB can control stepper motors which run the table. You don't need high precision because the camera just needs to be put in an overlapping spot to make the image. Then move it to the next segment.
Am I missing something?
"It's the way to educate your eyes. Stare. Pry, listen, eavesdrop. Die knowing something. You are not here long." - Walker Evans
Create a nice app for it, give it a snazzy name, package it up, hit a $500 price point?
Anyway to digitally manage dust?
Is this going to be too crude to do 35mm?
Nope, you've got it.Originally Posted by Brian C. Miller
The big questions are:
1) Can such a system provide the needed quality? (It's an awful amount of work if we can't do better than a V700.)
2) Can stitching software operate successfully at the grain level? With normal sized stitches, there tends to be much more prominent image elements.
I just acquired some 1/2" thick glass plates, and I can use a Screen clamshell holder to hold the negative, but I don't have a live view capable camera, and so focusing is going to be very tricky. If someone has a D300 (or similar) that they could lend me for a week or two, it would really help.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
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