Holding a Speed Graphic steady

[Dan Fromm]

Avi, the problem with trial shots like the one you just posted is that they make it hard to see where the plane of best focus actually is. That's why I suggested shots taken at 45 degrees to a picket fence or brick wall. Also, underexposure and overdevelopment both reduce sharpness.

Focus on one problem at a time. Thinking of focus, which of your focusing aids did you use?

[jp]

It's pretty clear your focus is off quite a bit there. The bricks in the background appear sharp, but not the steps. For further testing of focus, shoot some wide open images rather than f16. What are you using for film holders? Are you focusing with the groundglass rather than a rangefinder? Fomapan 100 is often derated to 50 or 64 depending on the developer chosen. Yours look really well exposed for 200; perhaps the shutter was a little slow to even things out?

[psychoanalyst]

Avi, the problem with trial shots like the one you just posted is that they make it hard to see where the plane of best focus actually is. That's why I suggested shots taken at 45 degrees to a picket fence or brick wall. Also, underexposure and overdevelopment both reduce sharpness.

Focus on one problem at a time. Thinking of focus, which of your focusing aids did you use?

Dan,

I will shoot some more this weekend with your suggested setup.

I use my Toyo loupe to focus.

Thanks.

Avi

[psychoanalyst]

It's pretty clear your focus is off quite a bit there. The bricks in the background appear sharp, but not the steps. For further testing of focus, shoot some wide open images rather than f16. What are you using for film holders? Are you focusing with the groundglass rather than a rangefinder? Fomapan 100 is often derated to 50 or 64 depending on the developer chosen. Yours look really well exposed for 200; perhaps the shutter was a little slow to even things out?

JP..I have removed the rangefinder from my camera...so GG focusing only.

I will shoot wide open too..

Avi

[psychoanalyst]

Try again with an immovable subject that has controllable depth. Classic examples of include a picket fence (for a not very close trial) and a newspaper taped to a wall (for fairly close). Set up to shoot both with the film plane at a 45 degree angle to the subject. Mark the vertical line of best focus on the subject. Shoot, process the film, and examine the neg or tranny at high magnification to see whether the line of best focus in it coincides with the intended one marked on the subject.

Dan,

Would a test subject like the one shown here work:

http://photo.net/learn/focustest/

Avi

[Dan Fromm]

Dan,

Would a test subject like the one shown here work:

http://photo.net/learn/focustest/

Avi

You've sort of got the idea, but the target Bob shows is intended for use closeup. Since you're working at normal distances, a picket fence or brick wall will do. Don't forget to mark the point of focus so that you can tell where you focused when you examine the negative. And don't examine <expletives deleted> scans, examine the <expletives deleted> negatives.

How much extension do you typically use and how tight is your Speed's focusing tension adjustment? I ask because with a lot of extension the bellows may pull the front standard back a little after focus has been achieved if the tension adjustment is loose.

[Bill Suderman]

How frustrating for you, but, although probably not relevant to this, I'd like to suggest checking the tightness (or loosness) of the lens elements. I have had the front element on my lenses unscrew when removing a filter or lens shade. A few years ago, I got a nice deal on a LF lens bought online. The previous owner had managed to reverse the front and back elements and thought the lens was defective. With the help of several polaroids, I figured out what was wrong. Now I no longer remember which lens it was, it went into my bag and I use it right along with all the others. What ever is the problem, it seems to be at/in the camera.
Scratching my head, best to you in solving this.
Bill

[john biskupski]

As said above, you need to inspect the negative for sharpness, with say a 6x loupe. That will lay to rest whether your negs are sharp or not. Softness in the scan can arise in many ways - but that's a whole different thread. But from your last examples, I can't see how camera position shift on loading the film holder could be the source of any sharpness loss. In such a composition, and providing everything else is locked down, that could cause minor misframing (as the camera swings on the tripod). If the negs are indeed unsharp, then it's probably a camera/lens issue. If as you say the GG image is sharp before you insert the holder, that excludes a number of causes, but then there may be problem between the position of the film plane vs the GG plane. You may want to have the back (which you say is extra-stiff) looked over by an experienced LF user. And I would check that the GG with it's fresnel panel are seated in place in the correct order.

[IanG]

John's just identified one possible issue. However first I'd check how well the front standard is locking to the rails, I have a Graphic were there was a problem (which is easily tightened) and I've also had focus creep with the same camera, fitting a DDS (Film holder) is nough to cause creep of the focus track if it's not locking tightly. So check that as well.

Some Speed & Crown Graphics came with a factory fitted fresnel, this sits under the ground glass screen (lens side). It the fresnel's been removed the glass then sits too deeply in the focus frame (closer to the lens) and would need shimming.

The focus frame for camera's with no fresnel from new is slightly different, and if you then add a fresnel it needs to be on the outside in this case.

Checking this, which is called the T distance, requires some measurements and tools.

Ian

[psychoanalyst]

Thanks guys..I am going to do the test Dan suggested and check the negs instead of the scans. You are right...the scans can be misleading.

About to place an order for a cheap loupe and a lightbox on Amazon. Any recommendations on a cheap lightbox? Can't afford fancy ones.

Appreciate all your help.

Avi