Light Meter recommendation

[psychoanalyst]

Hello All,

I am a recent entrant to the wonderful world of LF. I went out for my second outing today (with Fomapan 100).

I have been using my Nikon D300 as a pseudo spot-meter, but it is extremely frustrating to use in the field.

I wonder if you could recommend a decent starter light meter (cheaper the better of course, but if this is a one time investment that will serve me for a long time, I will think about spending the money).

Is a spot meter absolutely essential (I am learning the Zone System and would like to implement it) or can I make do with ordinary meters like the Sekonic L-358?

I would appreciate your advice.

Thanks!

Avi

[cyrus]

Depends by what you mean by "Zone system" - to some is merely means "expose for shadows develop for highlights" in which case any handheld incident light meter will work. If you want to get into flash photography etc you may want a fancier one. But if you want to do the FULL Zone system then you'll need a 1 degree spotmeter like the L-578 and they're not cheap. However, note that implementing the full zone system requires meticulous testing and calibrating of your equipment and process. Many LF photographers use just an incident light meter and do just fine. In fact over time they can eyeball an exposure, with experience. Most don't use more than 2-4 settings anyway.

[Darin Boville]

The standard choice in spot meters in LF is probably still the Pentax Digital Spot. On the used market for about $300 in excellent condition. With the Zone System you can add (or buy pre-made) a little sticker marking the zones on the dial.

In the end the meter is very easy to use without any clutter. There are more advanced meters and some people swear by them. I've tried a few and find them bewildering and/or the extra features of little value in my work.

For a film/scanning hybrid workflow I don't think you need the extreme level of control practiced by hard core Zone System enthusiasts. Plus you'll probably get more shadow detail than you expect when scanning, compared too what it says in the film-based texts. So it pays to know what process you plan to use and how much technical overhead you want or need.

--Darin

[banjo]

they say that the ZONE VI Pentax is the best!!$$$$$
I use a Gossen luna-pro F with gossen spot meter attachument it make it in to a
Variable angle spot meter with a 7.5* or a 15*
or Sekonic L508 or up to the L778 but that $$$$$$

[Richard Mahoney]

I wonder if you could recommend a decent starter light meter (cheaper the better of course, but if this is a one time investment that will serve me for a long time, I will think about spending the money).

Avi, I'm very fond of my Gossen - MasterSix. It's incident and reflective and modular, with all kinds of attachments, including various spotmeters, including film plane, if you think you need one. Although I initially thought my F4 was good enough, once I'd used the MasterSix for half an hour there was no going back. I've seen them for sale at KEH, including some attachments, for next to nothing.


Kind regards,

Richard

[chassis]

I also am new to LF. I found a Sekonic L-758DR on craigslist and got it for a reasonable price, in like new condition. It has both spot and incident capabilities. It has been a good tool in the short time I have had it.

[Mark Barendt]

I have been using my Nikon D300 as a pseudo spot-meter, but it is extremely frustrating to use in the field.

The frustrations of reflective metering don't disappear just because you get better tools.

Is a spot meter absolutely essential (I am learning the Zone System and would like to implement it) or can I make do with ordinary meters like the Sekonic L-358?

Not essential, IMO. Meters simply provide a reference point

The L-358 is a great meter.

[psychoanalyst]

All,

Thanks for your recommendations so far. I should have made my workflow clear.

I don't print and I simply scan my sheets after development, although I would like to have the option of printing the odd sheet if I really like it.

I don't think I need (at least right now) the extreme level of control over the Zone System.

Thanks.

Avi

[psychoanalyst]

Avi, I'm very fond of my Gossen - MasterSix. It's incident and reflective and modular, with all kinds of attachments, including various spotmeters, including film plane, if you think you need one. Although I initially thought my F4 was good enough, once I'd used the MasterSix for half an hour there was no going back. I've seen them for sale at KEH, including some attachments, for next to nothing.
Kind regards,
Richard

Richard, that seems like a good option. But can't seem to be find it anywhere right now. Thanks for pointing that out.

Depends by what you mean by "Zone system" - to some is merely means "expose for shadows develop for highlights" in which case any handheld incident light meter will work. If you want to get into flash photography etc you may want a fancier one. But if you want to do the FULL Zone system then you'll need a 1 degree spotmeter like the L-578 and they're not cheap. However, note that implementing the full zone system requires meticulous testing and calibrating of your equipment and process. Many LF photographers use just an incident light meter and do just fine. In fact over time they can eyeball an exposure, with experience. Most don't use more than 2-4 settings anyway.

Cyrus.....you are right. I don't intend to become a meticulous Zone system shooter. So, thanks for the great advice. I believe a standard incident meter will be good enough for me.

For a film/scanning hybrid workflow I don't think you need the extreme level of control practiced by hard core Zone System enthusiasts. Plus you'll probably get more shadow detail than you expect when scanning, compared too what it says in the film-based texts. So it pays to know what process you plan to use and how much technical overhead you want or need.

--Darin

Darin.....I think as you pointed out, I will be more than happy with the film/scanning hybrid workflow. Though I would like to print the odd good shot in between.

Thanks once again.

Avi

[Marc B.]

I am a multi-format shooter.
I too, wanted a 1 degree, digital spot meter, but the price was too high; as noted $300.00 or more, used.

I went a different route.
Found an excellent condition Pentax V(5), analog, 1 degree spot meter, used for $100.00.
Then I also acquired a Gossen Luna Pro, digital flash meter, used for $100.00, for checking/popping my flash exposures.

I use the Gossen almost exclusively indoors for flash photography, and the Pentax spot mostly outdoors for landscapes.

It may seem that having two separate meters means carrying an extra piece of equipment around, but the Gossen is very small. I now have [two] quality light meters that I can compare against each other, and/or should one meter fail, I have another in reserve, and I saved $100.00 bucks (or more), compared to the price of [one] digital spot meter.

The Gossen takes common AAA batteries. My Pentax V, is a more recent model that takes modern available 1.5 volt, button cell batteries. Some older models of the Pentax V, take the now defunct, 1.3 volt, Mercury batteries.
Avoid those models.

The Gossen is very easy to use, (a very short learning curve) compared with other digital flash meters on the market, (darn near idiot-proof) which, works well for me.

Marc