Zone metering with the Sekonic L-508?

[l2oBiN]

I am wondering how to most effectively apply zone metering with this meter. How do people utilize zone metering with the sekonic?

[Bill Burk]

I use a Zone System sticker on my L-578 which may work on your meter too.

http://www.beefalobill.com/images/zone.pdf

It merely serves to remind you the blinking reading is V and reminds you which direction is up towards VII and which is down towards II. Obvious when you think about it but sometimes not so easy to think...

[l2oBiN]

Exactly how do you use this Bill? Perhaps you have a photograph of your meter?

[neil poulsen]

I use EV's with my 508, as I recall.

For example, if I place a Zone 3 in a scene, and the EV reading is 9, subtract 3 from 9 to get 6. Subtracting "6" from any other reading will give you the correct zone with respect to the 3 that you placed at an earlier time.

I use this same system with my Pentax, and it works quite well.

[dsim]

Steve Simmons posted a Zoning article some time ago here. The Sekonic L-608 was used but the technique can be applied to the L-508.

Hope it helps.

[Bill Burk]

Here's a photo of my meter with sticker applied and screen protector over the top.

The L758 has clipping points that I moved out to match Zone I, II, VIII and IX.



1. Use the meter in Shutter Priority metering mode, the mode with f/stops scale showing on the LCD.
2. Spotmeter a part of the subject you want.
3. The blinking cursor indicates the f/stop for Zone V.
4. To "place" the reading at Zone II for shadow, use the f/stop at a clipping point, in my photo Zone II would be 1/15 at f/32 or f/45.
5. If your model lacks clipping points, you will need to count out the stops in your head.

The only reason it is hard to do in your head in the first place is that Zones IX and VIII are on the left and it "feels" backwards.

[Bill Burk]

Thanks dsim,

The article makes sense, and accomplishes the same ends as my steps. My sticker will work with the instructions from Steve Simmons...

[John NYC]

I am wondering how to most effectively apply zone metering with this meter. How do people utilize zone metering with the sekonic?

After studying the Ansel books, I boiled it down to this way of working for me with the L-758DR, a similar meter.

1. Set your desired ISO and f/stop on the meter. Verify that you have no current stored exposure readings in memory.

2. Meter the part of your scene where you absolutely want to keep very good shadow detail. This will be "placed" in Zone III in step four. Hit the memory store button.

3. Meter the place where you absolutely want to keep highlight detail. This will "fall" somewhere on zone system scale in step four. Hit the memory button.

4. You now have two stored readings. While holding down the Mid Tone button, move the jog will to place the first reading tick indicator on EV-2 (Zone III). You can then see where the upper reading falls on the EV scale. Be careful to note the shutter speed before releasing the button. This shutter speed will get you the exposure. If the upper reading is above EV+3 (Zone VIII), you are going to lose some of the highlights there and you have to start making some compromises.

Whenever friends with DSLRs start making fun of my meter and film camera, I challenge them to use any metering mode they want on their camera and then take a picture, then I use the above method and make them enter it in manually. The results are either a tie or the zone system exposure is better, without fail.

The trick is knowing WHERE in your scene to take your two meter readings, and that is what takes practice.

[atlcruiser]

Maybe I am just too basic on this I use the same meter.

I use EV only. I set the the film speed then measure the darkest area I want detail in...zone 3. My meter tells me that is the EV for that area at zone 5. I add 2 stops of film speed with the ISO dial and that gives me zone 3 for that area. From there I pick f stop based on the scene, focus point and how I want to record it. I can see possible combos at once as I dial the f stop up/down.

I can do the same thing for the hi values by reducing film speed. I count in my head the difference between low/hi values

My goal is a 5 EV spread at N development. Depending on the scene I might use zone 4 not zone 3 to help get me there.

I also, almost at random, throw in an additional stop of exposure if i am at all unsure of what i have.

I use the average function a lot with roll film. I will also take a survey of the scene recording the values into the memory so I can get an overall feel for the range prior to messing with my film speed as above.

[John NYC]

Maybe I am just too basic on this I use the same meter.

Your way is similar to mine, if you follow the steps I outline, you don't have to do any calcs in your head and the whole process takes about 5 seconds.