And then buy some more?Originally Posted by Randy Moe
And then buy some more?
Really digging this stuff lately:
Some tree roots. Wish I got the focus a little sharper all the way across the frame. 5x7 Direct Positive with Burke & James and Wollensak Versar:
bullcreekroots by carsonww, on Flickr
Just wondering, when metering, what do you expose for? The highlights or the shadows? Or both and bracket? I'm particularly interested in how Bracan might have exposed his wonderful portraits.
Harman Direct Positive paper image from f/120 film canister pinhole camera, format size 1.75" square, exposure 1 minute in bright shade. Subject is Hermes 3000 "Nekkid-Riter" manual typewriter.
~Joe
The photograph and the thing being photographed are not the same thing.
Wow!
Tin Can
Hi All,
Looking to get started with this paper. Not sure if this has already been answered in this this thread or not.... but I'm wondering if this paper is responsive to daylight balanced LED panel lights such as the ones used for video?? I've been researching a lot and feel like I read some direct positive paper is only responsive to certain light sources. I'd like to try and do some environmental portraits and will need to use some lighting, would like to use what I have already if possible.
Anyone have success using LED panel lights with this paper?
DPP is sensitive to normal blue and green wavelengths as present in sunlight. Your LED panels should be fine.
Here is my first shot with this paper. Taken with a Crown Graphic, metered at ISO 3, no pre-flash, and developed in HC-110 dilution H:
Paper Positive by Tim Huggins, on Flickr
I've very excited to start working with this paper more. This thread is full of great pictures. I'm curious if anyone has suggestions for framing their prints?
Hello,
I'm new to this forum, but have been shooting with Harman Direct Positive for a bit over a year now. I had some problems developing it previously when done in a classroom setting, the prints would turn dark as soon as I brought them out to the light, so I gave up developing them for a bit. I think now that maybe the safe light was fogging them, not sure.
Now I have started to develop my backlog of paper at home in a Patterson film developing tank with Mod54 in Rodinal 1:25 for 8 minutes at 20C. I was able to develop pure black prints and "off white" prints of blank exposed paper. Today I developed a few of my shots with the same Rodinal dilution, a water stop bath and Ilford Rapid Fix 1:4 for four minutes. When taken out of the tank the prints looked perfect, with a range of black to grey and white. Almost immediately though the paper started to turn yellow. I put them back into fix and am now washing them. I did one more batch and a similar phenomena happened even though I fixed them this time for 10 minutes prior to removing from the tank.
Note that these pictures were taken with the old Harman direct that was around prior to the new batch. The testing was done on the new batch, in case that matters.
I now have a few questions:
1. I realize the developer extinguishes rapidly (was not able to successfully reuse it for the second four sheets), but what about the fixer?
2. Why does the paper darken/yellow when exposed to the light after processing?
3. Does this paper require an acidic stop bath like acetic acid instead of water?
4. Is the paper just fogged maybe or did they sit around too long prior to being developed?
Thanks very much for any suggestions. I'm super excited to keep shooting this now that I can (mostly) process it at home.
Aric
I am by no means an expert with this paper, I've only developed a handful of shots. However, I only used a water bath and my shots have come out "fine" to my eye. I've never been able to determine how quickly to develop a shot after taking it, but it seems like most people develop the paper pretty quickly after exposure (that evening or the next day).
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