8x10 Film

[Fotoguy20d]

For cost reasons, I've been shooting paper negatives (Arista Ultra EDU grade 2) in 8x10 but I'm really not satisfied with them and I'd like to switch to B&W film but I can't afford $3-4 a sheet. I've heard that xray film is cheap but, I see that there are different varieties (different sensitivities for example), and I'm wondering what the drawbacks are to this film. Will it be any better than what I'm using? Any other suggestions for how to do this on the "cheap" (in so far as 8x10 can be cheap)?

Thanks,
Dan

[grahamcase]

People on this forum have had success using x-ray film, and there's a wealth of knowledge.

Try these threads:
http://www.largeformatphotography.in...ighlight=x-ray

http://www.largeformatphotography.in...ighlight=x-ray

http://www.largeformatphotography.in...ighlight=x-ray

A few things to be aware of before starting your research:

- x-ray film has emulsion on both sides of the substrate
- the substrate is thinner than regular negatives (I believe? I think they're more fragile at the very least)
- it comes in green sensitive and blue sensitive. There are examples in the above threads, and in the image sharing forum. Take a look around and see what you like There's also developing suggestions to get you started.

[Roger Cole]

Not sure if it's "enough cheaper" but Arista is rebranded Foma and available for $2.40 per sheet for the 100:

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_search.php?rfnc=404

X-ray film would be an interesting alternative too but a "real" panchromatic photo film is nice.

I've not really looked at outdated 8x10 but that's another possibility. I've picked up some decent deals on 4x5 (allegedly) cold stored.

[Andrew O'Neill]

I have been quite happy with xray film. I've been using the 8x10 green latitude stuff from cxsonline. I use it for carbon transfer printing. There is emulsion on both sides so there is a very very slight reduction in sharpness, but like I said, slight. I've never enlarged it, so don't know how well it performs as far as sharpness goes. Some people strip the emulsion off of the backside... You still get decent density ranges for printing on silver papers, but not for alternative process such as carbon.
This film is orthochromatic and have used yellow filters successfully with it to slightly darken skies.
You must be careful handling this film as it scratches easily when loading/unloading holders and also when developing. Flat bottom trays or hangers is best way to go.
I develop it in pyrocat-hd. It can be developed in conventional developers, too.
You can handle this film under a red or yellowish safe light.
Roger, I think the Arista film price is for 50 sheets? Xray comes in 100 sheet boxes.

[Ari]

I've been quite happy with blue-sensitive x-ray film.
Been meaning to shoot more, but I'm waiting on replacement bellows.
And yes, there's a ton of information on this forum.

[cdholden]

Some people strip the emulsion off of the backside... You still get decent density ranges for printing on silver papers, but not for alternative process such as carbon.
This film is orthochromatic and have used yellow filters successfully with it to slightly darken skies.
You must be careful handling this film as it scratches easily when loading/unloading holders and also when developing. Flat bottom trays or hangers is best way to go.
I develop it in pyrocat-hd. It can be developed in conventional developers, too.
You can handle this film under a red or yellowish safe light.

Andrew,
How does one strip a side of emulsion without stripping or scratching the emulsion on the other side? I'm not familiar with X-ray film, but I have heard that it is softer and easier to scratch than traditional panchromatic photographic films.

Chris

[Andrew O'Neill]

Chris,

I just copy and pasted what Dann wrote:

1. Always remember what side of the film originally faced the lens. This is the emulsion side we protect.
2. Develop your exposed film as usual and don't let the side mentioned in step 1 above touch anything during development.
3. Fix, wash and completely dry the film.
4. Once dried, place the film with the side mentioned in step 1 facing down on a peice of clean sheet glass. Again, this is the side we are protecting.
5. Tape the edges of the film to the glass using 3M painter's type tape on each side of the film. About 5mm overlap at the edges is sufficient. Make these tape to film, and tape to glass seals good. I use my thumb and gobs of pressure.
6. Place an extra piece of tape across at each of the four corners of the film to double-seal the corners.
7. Disolve the film emulsion using straight household laundry bleach and a soft 2" wide painters brush. It takes very little bleach to do this. Use sparingly and gingerly.
8. Gently hose off the bleach from the film and glass with water, thoroughly.
9. Remove the tape from the glass and film.
10. Wash and dry your film as usual.

Andrew

[EdWorkman]

If you can BE CAREFUL the cost of Xray film beats the crap out of everything else
AND
it's so cheap you can practice until you get it right= CHEAPLY

[Michael Kadillak]

If the costs of film are eating into your budget the choices are to 1) shoot less, 2) investigate cheaper sheet film alternatives to the degree possible, 3) get a 4x5 reducing back, get a second job or sell the 8x10 and start shooting less expensive medium format roll film.

I just finished the new Brett Weston biography and was blown away with how he scraped and found a way to make it work with his 8x10. I am convinced that where there is a will, there is a always a way. Good Luck!

[Merg Ross]

I just finished the new Brett Weston biography and was blown away with how he scraped and found a way to make it work with his 8x10. I am convinced that where there is a will, there is a always a way. Good Luck!

Brett did exactly that, and I knew him during many of his lean years. He sacrificed almost everything for his work, but never complained; the reward was the next negative and print. We are left with the wonderful results.