Gold Toned Vandyke

[olive92]

Hi Sandy,

Thank you for your answer.

i wash the print before toning with 3 baths:

#1: water with citric acid (pH about 4 to 5) for 5 min

#2: water with less citric acid for 2 min

#3: only water for 3 min

#4: toning bath for 4 to 5 min. I use only 20 mL of toner for a 7 x 5 inchs, perhaps it's too little.

Perhaps, the issue comes from the toner... When i add the thiourea solution to the gold one, a yellow/orange precipitate is formed which is then dissolved with the addition of thiourea then i add the water containing the sodium chloride and the tartric acid. Finally i obtain a clear and colorless solution that i use a few minutes after.

[D. Bryant]

I've experienced the same or similar problems that you have with ferric silver based processes such as VDB, Agyrotype, and kallitype prints.

First don't use a water rinse at all before toning. I use 3 successive 2 minute clearing baths comprised of a 3% solution of citric acid.

Second, I use a smaller volume of solution in a tray 1 size larger than the paper sheet you are printing on; after the the print is finished it's 2 minute bath I transfer the print to a clean tray and repeat until all 3 baths are complete.

Third, I use the clearing baths 1 shot, that is they are dumped and not reused after 1 use.

Forth, you can experiment to see if a water wash prior to printing affects the staining at this point prior to the fixing step. And do rinse thoroughly after toning. Use your toner as a 1 shot solution.

Fifth, don't overuse the fixer, the proper dilution is weak and exhausts quickly, again I use this as a 1 shot.

FWIW, I also use a wash water filter that removes chlorine. These can usually be found online and are relatively inexpensive - compared to the cost of the precious metals you are using.

Finally, the make and type of paper can make a big difference for your results.

Good luck.

[olive92]

Thank you to help me.

I also use filtred water, the same that i use for the water i drink to eliminate chlorine but i use a much weaker citric acid solution than you (just a pinch for a liter of water) and probably i don't eliminate ferric compounds correctly. I never reuse my first bath which becomes slightly "milky" with only one print but reuse the next one. I never reuse neither the toner nor the fixer (2 % sodium hypo; 2 minutes fixing).

I join the toning print made on fabriano artistico.

I'll make another try next week with a stronger citric acid solution.

[olive92]

Hi,

i've made some improvements to my process and now i've got the attached print (to compare to my previous one).



I need to improve density because i find the black are not dense enough... Perhaps i have to apply 2 coatings the second after the first is dry. Sandy says that some paper needs to be immerge into citric acid solution and dried before use...

See you soon.

Olivier

[olive92]

Hi,

i' ve got better results now.
What do you think about it ?



I have treated my paper with 0.5 % citric acid and let it dry before coating.

The color is not really yet what i want: i would like a cooler black and more contrast.

What do you use to enhance contrast ?
I read dichromate can be use in the developer stage but i have added 10 drops at 5 % to 250 mL of tap water for several minutes after the initial water bath but without results...


Olivier

[D. Bryant]

Assuming you've solved your clearing / staining problems. You now need to determine the exposure scale of your printing process. And then make negatives that fit the process.

You can determine this with a step tablet. And then arrive at the proper exposure/development time of your film empirically through test printing (or use a densitometer.)

IOW, your negatives lack proper contrast and you can't make it up successfully with contrast additives. Those are useful when your negative is off slightly.

Or learn to make digital negatives that fit your process scale.

The answers are simple but require work through testing.

[olive92]

Assuming you've solved your clearing / staining problems. You now need to determine the exposure scale of your printing process. And then make negatives that fit the process.

You can determine this with a step tablet. And then arrive at the proper exposure/development time of your film empirically through test printing (or use a densitometer.)

IOW, your negatives lack proper contrast and you can't make it up successfully with contrast additives. Those are useful when your negative is off slightly.

Or learn to make digital negatives that fit your process scale.

The answers are simple but require work through testing.

I'have already made this job by trying multiple exposure time and i've generated a correction curve with a stouffer range but i think i print my digital negative on a (too) cheap ink jet film which does not permit to obtain dense blacks (green in fact because i use a UV color filter).

I must try others inkjet films.

Olivier