Looking for First 4x5 LF Camera!

[Ivan J. Eberle]

Feel free to ignore my advice as it's probably going to seem contrarian. That said, for you as a beginner to product photography--if you are thinking of doing this commercially--my opinion is that you're on the wrong track. You'll be competing against others who have long experience with large format view cameras but now have the tremendous economic and immediate-feedback advantage of having largely abandoned LF for digital imaging.

Cameras and lenses may now be cheaper than ever, but it's only because they were once so ubiquitous in commercial and product photography and that are now obsolete for this purpose for most uses. In high volumes, film and scanning of LF film represented a huge expense.

It all boils down to the final use of the images. If you're making enormous enlargements, LF still rules. For many other uses (including most print media ones), it's merely a stylistic choice to use LF over smaller formats, and not the foregone necessity it once was.

Oh, and if you're set on LF, you'll do well to consider a studio monorail with full moves, and interchangeable bellows. Good news is that they're comparatively cheap. If your products are small, you may need a lot of extension (18" on up). Any reasonably good condition Sinar will be more than adequate.

A 210mm lens, while a terrific choice for portraits, is probably too long for easily shooting macros on 4x5. Shorter focal lengths like the 120mm macros work because have large image circles at close focusing distances.

[IanG]

A 210mm lens, while a terrific choice for portraits, is probably too long for easily shooting macros on 4x5. Shorter focal lengths like the 120mm macros work because have large image circles at close focusing distances.

You don't want a lens shorter than a 150mm for product shots or you exaggerate the perspectives.

Ian

[mob81]

Thanks for the advice. I'm not looking to compete with anyone (may be in the future, not near future though )
I want it for my own pleasure and learning of movements, and other LF aspects. Once I feel comfortable using it, I want to use it mainly with those gorgeous 4x5 positive sheets On any occasion I feel like doing it.

For now it's purly pleasure and practice.

By the way, I bought a Sinar F kit from a member here.

I really appreciate all the informative input. You guys are great.

Feel free to ignore my advice as it's probably going to seem contrarian. That said, for you as a beginner to product photography--if you are thinking of doing this commercially--my opinion is that you're on the wrong track. You'll be competing against others who have long experience with large format view cameras but now have the tremendous economic and immediate-feedback advantage of having largely abandoned LF for digital imaging.

Cameras and lenses may now be cheaper than ever, but it's only because they were once so ubiquitous in commercial and product photography and that are now obsolete for this purpose for most uses. In high volumes, film and scanning of LF film represented a huge expense.

It all boils down to the final use of the images. If you're making enormous enlargements, LF still rules. For many other uses (including most print media ones), it's merely a stylistic choice to use LF over smaller formats, and not the foregone necessity it once was.

Oh, and if you're set on LF, you'll do well to consider a studio monorail with full moves, and interchangeable bellows. Good news is that they're comparatively cheap. If your products are small, you may need a lot of extension (18" on up). Any reasonably good condition Sinar will be more than adequate.

A 210mm lens, while a terrific choice for portraits, is probably too long for easily shooting macros on 4x5. Shorter focal lengths like the 120mm macros work because have large image circles at close focusing distances.

[mob81]

I actually want a 150mm rodenstock and when I searched, most are Sinar DB (I don't know if it's compatible or not, how to search for a lens that would fit a certain camera) because of those boards and other aspects.

Thanks

[Dave Hally]

I think you've made a good choice in the Sirar, especially for learning purposes. After you learn about movements and perspective, you will be in a better position to go to a different camera, if you need to.
I do mostly field work, but I tend to do a lot of close-ups, and use a fair amount of movements. Up until now, I have mostly used a Toyo 45A, and just recently purchased a Chamonix 45-n2, which I really like, and would recommend for your future consideration.
I have used monorails (Sinar P zng Graphic View II) both inthe field and some table top work. I believe that the Chamonix will do anything that I've done in the past and more than the Toyo (mostly bellows draw, in this case).
Good luck and show us some of youreork.
Dave

[mob81]

I actually want a 150mm rodenstock and when I searched, most are Sinar DB (I don't know if it's compatible or not, how to search for a lens that would fit a certain camera) because of those boards and other aspects.

Thanks

I also would like to clear out that I'm not going to buy it know as I'll be learning but if a bargain shows up and I'd like to know what to look for.

[Jim Michael]

You typically buy a lens in shutter and then buy a board for your camera that's drilled to the appropriate size for your shutter. If you go to keh.com and drill down to the large format lens section you'll probably find what you're looking for and they should have a board for your camera as well. Badger Graphics is a good source for new lenses.

[E. von Hoegh]

I did semi pro product photography, with a Linhof STIV and once with a DeardorffV8, with a 4x5 back and 300mm lens (long story). The Linhof is great, but expensive and a bit fiddly for a beginner. Forget a V8 'dorff.
I'd reccomend a simple monorail; they're cheap and widely available. If your studio is small, maybe a 180 lens intead of the 210 - you'll use up a bit less bellows, as well.

Good luck - and welcome to the fora!

Just remember, the most important bit of equipment is right between your ears.

[mob81]

You typically buy a lens in shutter and then buy a board for your camera that's drilled to the appropriate size for your shutter. If you go to keh.com and drill down to the large format lens section you'll probably find what you're looking for and they should have a board for your camera as well. Badger Graphics is a good source for new lenses.

You mean if i find good lens I'm looking for with shutter (Does't matter, copal or synchro...etc. I just find a board and connect it together and that's it

[Jim Michael]

Yep. Pretty simple. One thing to note is you might see a little variation in the hole sizes on the boards. Some shutters have a little raised area that allows them to be centered accurately in the hole. If the hole is too small you won't get the benefit of that centering action. Someone else might know a little more about which shutters and the exact numbers than I do and may be able to provide some more info.