Advice on Speed Graphic

[EdWorkman]

I bought a Graflex decades ago and got a new curtain installed. It never worked right, although I feel i can get it to do so.
then i got two speeds. Having no money at the time I got them out to use, I googled for info.
The curtains are fine, no rips cracks or major issues. But the curtains obviously were hanging up and moving slooooowly.
I found a tidbit about how and what to lube, without requiring any disassembly, so i did and after a little excercise the shutters seemd very OK. [L ook for a little hole on a round thingy on the bottom- it leads to the bearing of one of the curtain spools. i used sewing machine oil, fearing the water in WD40 would be a bad thing]
Being a gaziliion [well, over 120] miles from any known repair I figured speed checking was going to involve more pain than i was up for, so i took the camera out on a Sunny 16 day and tried some shots. BTW this is about an Anniversary and a pre-Anniv- Graflex FP shutters are heel-for-stout. The negs came out well, and I'm happy.
I do find my eyeballs are very inadequate for focussing, so I've resigned myself to a lot of tripod, and loupe, and a homemade hood for the groundglass- should be illegal for a Speed.
So I say the fast speeds of the leaf shutter can be addressed later and use the FP for those after you have had some fun of actual pictures

[psychoanalyst]

Avi,
how about a little more info on the shutter. When you say it doesn't work on B and T, what do you mean--does the shutter not open at all? Does it open, but not close? Does it open and close, but very, very slowly? Does it open and close sometimes but not other times? Does it work when you press the shutter release but not with a cable?

In my experience, the more common problem is the shutter will open--slowly--and close--slowly--and/or hang up sometimes more than others. It's more rare--and more serious--if it does not open at all on B or T.

Mike,

I will go home tonight and check whatever you mentioned and get back with my detailed observations.

Thanks.

Avi

[psychoanalyst]

So I say the fast speeds of the leaf shutter can be addressed later and use the FP for those after you have had some fun of actual pictures

Ed,

Thanks. That is exactly what I am going to do for the time being while I try and sort out the issue with the leaf shutter.

Avi

[psychoanalyst]

Avi,
how about a little more info on the shutter. When you say it doesn't work on B and T, what do you mean--does the shutter not open at all? Does it open, but not close? Does it open and close, but very, very slowly? Does it open and close sometimes but not other times? Does it work when you press the shutter release but not with a cable?

In my experience, the more common problem is the shutter will open--slowly--and close--slowly--and/or hang up sometimes more than others. It's more rare--and more serious--if it does not open at all on B or T.

Mike,

Here are my detailed observations:

1. at the 1/400 setting: I try and cock the lever, but it won't remain cocked. That is, if I release it, it snaps back into position, but I can see the leaves open and close. No touching the trip lever at any point.

2. At the B setting: I cock the lever, but it gradually snaps back into its original position all on its own without me ever tripping the shutter. Almost the same problem as 1/400, but its a more gradual release.

3. T setting: It half works. That is when I cock the lever and press down on the trip lever, the leaves open. But the second part where the leaves are supposed to close when I press down on the trip lever does not work. I have to physically push the cock lever to close the shutter.

The other speeds at least open and close when I cock and trip.....don't know about speeds.

One of the users on this forum kindly offered me a Rapax shutter for $40...so I am thinking of taking him up on his offer.

Thanks!

Avi

[Michael Roberts]

Avi, this certainly sounds like a situation you could fix using the aerosol electronic contact cleaner that I referenced in my earlier post. It sounds like a classic case of dried or semi-dried lubricant that is clogging up the works. The aerosol spray is a $10 investment and there is no risk of causing additional damage as far as I am aware.
Michael

[psychoanalyst]

Avi, this certainly sounds like a situation you could fix using the aerosol electronic contact cleaner that I referenced in my earlier post. It sounds like a classic case of dried or semi-dried lubricant that is clogging up the works. The aerosol spray is a $10 investment and there is no risk of causing additional damage as far as I am aware.
Michael

Mike,

Thanks for the tip. I will try that.

I had another question (and maybe a stupid one at that). When focusing on GG, I see that the image is brightest in the center and fades away at the edges. When I checked the LF page on the Crown Graphic

http://www.largeformatphotography.in...ras/pacemaker/

the section of Focusing mentions that the GG is evenly illuminated.

I have no experience using GG focusing, so thought I'd confirm before I load up my first sheet of film (EVER!).

Quite excited to start this weekend. Got pretty much everything. Waiting for for chemicals and my Toyo 3.6X loupe.

Thanks!

Avi

[Michael Roberts]

Check to see if this is simply a result of your angle of view--i.e., if you move your head to the corner of the gg, does the brightness follow your line of sight? If so, you don't have a problem with light fall-off from the lens. You shouldn't have a problem with the 135mm.

Note: this may be impossible unless you remove the metal focus hood. Try removing it and using a black t-shirt, jacket or towel as a dark cloth so you can move around more behind the camera. You will probably want to experiment with using the hood or not and see which you are most comfortable with. Personally, I find it gets in my way, and I don't use it. I wear glasses, and that's one reason I find the hood awkward to use. To remove the hood, open it up first, then press on the catches on the sides. To replace it, close it up and just press it back into place.

If you acquire a wider angle lens--like the Optar 90mm--you will definitely notice light fall-off-about one stop.

You may find that you rarely need the loupe; I only use mine in low light conditions. In bright light I can focus just fine without it.

Excitement is a good thing...feels like...life! I've been looking forward to the Summer Solstice for several months to get to a couple of locations where I expect the angle of the sun will be optimal for what I want; can't wait to get out again.

[Jack Dahlgren]

I had another question (and maybe a stupid one at that). When focusing on GG, I see that the image is brightest in the center and fades away at the edges. When I checked the LF page on the Crown Graphic

http://www.largeformatphotography.in...ras/pacemaker/

the section of Focusing mentions that the GG is evenly illuminated.

More or less evenly. There will almost always be fall-off at the edges as the light is at a more of an angle to your eye there. Move your head side to side and you will see the brighter area shift. This is just physics, so get used to it.

[psychoanalyst]

Check to see if this is simply a result of your angle of view--i.e., if you move your head to the corner of the gg, does the brightness follow your line of sight? If so, you don't have a problem with light fall-off from the lens. You shouldn't have a problem with the 135mm.

Note: this may be impossible unless you remove the metal focus hood. Try removing it and using a black t-shirt, jacket or towel as a dark cloth so you can move around more behind the camera. You will probably want to experiment with using the hood or not and see which you are most comfortable with. Personally, I find it gets in my way, and I don't use it. I wear glasses, and that's one reason I find the hood awkward to use. To remove the hood, open it up first, then press on the catches on the sides. To replace it, close it up and just press it back into place.

Mike....did all the tests you suggested. The viewing hood sucks! After removing it, I realized that it was an angle of viewing problem you mentioned. With the hood on, it is difficult to tell. I will probably remove the hood and go the dark cloth route.

You may find that you rarely need the loupe; I only use mine in low light conditions. In bright light I can focus just fine without it.

I did notice that focusing on the GG is a far cry from the pathetic viewfinders on my DX camera. But, I have the chance of buying a Toyo 3.6X for ~$35-40, so I thought why not?

Excitement is a good thing...feels like...life! I've been looking forward to the Summer Solstice for several months to get to a couple of locations where I expect the angle of the sun will be optimal for what I want; can't wait to get out again.

I might go back to Alaska this winter to catch the Northern Lights again.....don't know if the lights can be captured on 4x5.....that would be cool.

But my first goal is shoot my first sheets of color by the time the fall colors set in.

Thanks!

Avi

[Michael Roberts]

It would be cool, but I think even really fast LF lenses are way too slow for the Northern Lights. By really fast, I mean 4.5. But there are some faster 4x5 lenses, such as the Aero Ektars that might work, though with color 4x5 film topping out at 100 ISO, I think it will still be too slow for the Northern Lights.

Tried the aerosol electronic contact cleaner yet?