Contacted Paul. The total cost runs into $86 for CLA and recalibration of speeds+shipping additional. I wonder if I could buy a shutter for that cost?Originally Posted by Nathan Smith
Contacted Paul. The total cost runs into $86 for CLA and recalibration of speeds+shipping additional. I wonder if I could buy a shutter for that cost?
Yes, if you went out a bought another one, it too could need a CLA or be defective. Any camera or shutter that has sat for years will need a CLA. Contact Carol Flutots at http://www.flutotscamerarepair.com/ She is usually less expensive and really quite good, I have used her, but she has a long backlog typically.
Steve
Nothing beats a great piece of glass!
I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.
A Speed Graphic at this price with a 135mm Optar should have a lens working on all speeds ... not guaranteed accurate on all speeds ... but one working on all speeds.
There is no way for you to tell if a CLA will fix this lens ... it's not just a matter of being off time ... it is NOT WORKING on 3 different settings. That is unacceptable ... you may well ship ($$) and spend an additional $60-$70 (so now you're over 1/3 of your purchase price) ... and end up being told the lens can't be fixed.
I'd send it back to Adorama and find another one. There is no way a vendor of the size and experience of Adorama should deliver a lens with these undisclosed flaws.
Brian,
I live 15 minutes away, LOL! This is a great piece of info! Out comes by Crown Graphic, Busch and Bronica!
Thanks,
Asher
I didn't see anything in your posts indicating the style you intend to shoot. For me, the issue of the rangefinder is extremely simple.
I have never, and never intend to shoot large format hand held. For me personally, that amounts to wasted film. Secondly, I don't personally find the focal plane shutter to my liking. Consequently, I tend toward fixer upper Graflex bodies. The first item removed is any form of rangefinder. Second, out with the focal plane shutter. But keep in mind that I lean toward cameras that are weak in these areas. I would never cripple a camera in good form, but it's a waste of time for me to seek out perfectly good specimens.
I have had 3(and still have two) Graflex Super Graphic bodies from which I have stripped all rangefinder circuitry, linkage, cams, cam mechanisms, etc. Everything that would be needed for anything other than ground glass work is gone from the body.
Stripped in this way, these cameras weigh about 2/3 of their usual weight, which is my goal. Decent field camera usage, on a tripod. With the extra and somewhat unknown movements in the Super Graphic, they offer as much movement as most dedicated field view cameras.
If you keep looking for camera's that are excellent plus in all functions, you should expect to pay at least three times what you did. Otherwise, you will simply be looking, buying, selling and looking again. You will hardly ever be assured of the operation of all the critical function unless you pay to have it done yourself. There are plenty of sources for the work. I would say that you got your Graflex for a fair price. Plan to double that to get it right for you, particularly if hand held work is something you want to try.
And, I didn't see him mentioned, but don't overlook Fred Lustig in Reno Nevada. He's a master of all these Graflex cameras, rebuilding all aspect of them, including the notorious 1000 speed shutter for the Super Speed.
Kuzano,
I agree with you.
I don't intend to shoot hand held at all. A big reason behind my shooting film with the Speed is learning composition.
The focal plane shutter is important to me since I eventually want to shoot with barrel lenses.
I am ok with the rangefinder not working well, but I am a bit more concerned about the shutter, now that Jim has pointed out that I overpaid.
Hopefully I will find a solution that works for me.
Avi
Avi,
how about a little more info on the shutter. When you say it doesn't work on B and T, what do you mean--does the shutter not open at all? Does it open, but not close? Does it open and close, but very, very slowly? Does it open and close sometimes but not other times? Does it work when you press the shutter release but not with a cable?
In my experience, the more common problem is the shutter will open--slowly--and close--slowly--and/or hang up sometimes more than others. It's more rare--and more serious--if it does not open at all on B or T.
Also, you might consider buying Mike's 135 Optar:
http://www.largeformatphotography.in...ad.php?t=76742
Less than the cost of a CLA, solves your immediate problem, and then you can deal with your current shutter issue at your leisure...
You could not buy one that had a recent CLA and recalibration. Keep in mind that ALL of these shutters are old, and all of them will need a CLA.
You can however buy one that has not been cleaned recently fairly cheaply. If you buy it from someone who has used and/or properly tested it, and you trust that person, then maybe you could put off having it cleaned. But eventually you're going to need to talk to Carol, Steve, Paul, or whomever. Old oil & grease gets gummed up over time.
If the FP shutter is functioning at all spring tensions,it is likely fairly accurate. Run it a few times at each speed, starting with the fastest, and chances are it will be OK. As for the Graphex shutter, there are still a few competent repair people scattered around the country. Also, it is not too expensive to replace.
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