Still-Life Images, 2011

[Sart_S]

George,
My thoughts on single-source: We live on a single-source planet. The source can be hard or soft but what counts is the nature of the shadow it creates. A second 'source' should be diffuse and invisible and only there to make up for the fllm's deficiency of latitude. Look up 'penumbra'. The viewer feels the surroundings ( clear blue sky, bright room, dark kitchen) from the way the penumbra looks - even close-up on a pear.

I've been away for ten days but the pot of flowers is still there. This is today's 8x10. The whole sequence is here, if anyone is interested in comparing 8x10 scans with tiny format tone-maps.

Fine still-life! And all set interesting!

[megapickle1]

Dear Mr. Broadbent! Thank you for your talking to an absolutly beginner in LF.
First, I adore your photographs.

I visited you studio virtually (photo on your homepage) and I´ve got a little bit envious. All that room and possibilities. Well, I does not have it and have to do all on 4-5 sq.yards, light stands included. And, that´s the most important, i have not your experience.
I´ll eagerly try your suggestion and those from the other members to use a single light source for still lifes. Coming from the documentary photography I try to get enough light everywhere. I´ve seen my mistakes and so I tried to get a little help here.
I also have to buy some useful backdrops and create a podium/platform to lift up my scenery like you do. Please tell me your usual distance between camera and object because it´s hard for me to estimate.
George

[cjbroadbent]

George,
Thanks for a question I enjoy answering (sorry everybody). The camera to subject distance is equal to the width of the subject. Elementary geometry when you use a lens that has a focal length equal to the width of the film (base of triangle = height of triangle). I use a 120mm lens on 10x12 (4x5"), 180mm on 13x18 (5x7") 240mm on 20x25 (8x10"). This is not standard practice because it is harder to do; but keeping close to the subject allows you to use the subject's perspective to orient the viewer and put the subject within his reach.

[megapickle1]

Thank you for your kind answer Mr. Broadbent.

But (maybe my lousy English) I dont`t know if I understand it right. If the width of the subject is 1 yard the distance has to be 1 yard. If the width of my apples including the visible part of the table is one foot I have to near up with the camera to this distance? I have never tried this because of my bellows max. 450mm. I will do this setup the very next day.
George

p.s. Please do not answer here with regard to the other members.

[stradibarrius]

I needed something to test my metering skills so this was the victim.
comments welcome.

[chassis]

stradibarrius, nice image. You captured nicely the different textures and tones of the three different objects. What metering technique were you using?

[Emil Schildt]

p.s. Please do not answer here with regard to the other members.

that's a mistake!

When a master speaks, we all should read/listen...

[jmooney]

that's a mistake!

When a master speaks, we all should read/listen...

Agreed! I want to hear the answer as well!

[rco3]

Agreed! I want to hear the answer as well!

Thirded! I have ears for any wisdom cjbroadbent chooses to share.

[jcoldslabs]

This one used a single light source (the sun) and an entirely white bathroom as diffuser/reflector/fill.

Toyo 45A, Rodenstock 210mm, Ektachrome 100 plus 4x5, negative scan (desaturated).