Hello, I found a deal on a Asahi Pentax 1 degree digital spot meter (if $250 is a deal). It isn't Zone whatever modified, Fred Picker didn't get his hands on it. Reading some of the responses on the net, that may be a good thing.
I have found a copy of the manual, I have read Ansel's the Negative ( in some places it is like reading the phone book to me). I basiclly understand the zone system.
My summary of Zone System. A system where a Photog makes a choice on where to place exposure based on detail in a scene. The zone system has broken tonal range into segments from Black to White but 1 and 10 are useless as they hold no texture. 2 and 9 start to fold texture (depending on film and paper) Zones 3 and 7 are the first zones that really hold texture and when deciding on the proper exposure one will carefully consider the placement of a specific zone, knowing that during the final print one will be able to able to push or pull information on the negative.
Ware as if one was to meter an overall average of a scene and make a proper exposure, you may not be able to achieve the final vision because information such as textures could be lost due to over or under exposing. Grrr this is hard to explain.
Now to how to use the 1 degree spot meter as I understand. You dial in the ASA (iso). Point the meter a low or high zone holding texture info Like Zone 2 or 9 and read the meter, it will give you a number and one or two dots. This number will be the number you use to determine the aperture or shutter speed depending on what zone you want to place that reading on.
One will consider and make adjustments in exposure to preserve detail or use of filters (example, to darken an exposure to control atmospheric conditions or color filters to change final rendering of an image). We are making considerations in exposure knowing we plan to modifying the development when we make the print.
I know that to use the zone system with the spot meter you need to put a little scale representing the zone system on the back of the dials with zone 5 (V) in the middle. I put zone 2 thru 8 on mine to help me visualize what is going on.
Here is an example, I point the meter at a bright spot and get a reading of 9. I dial the 9 to place it on what ever zone I want the reading, for my example I put it in the center across from (V) or zone 5, since the little scale is like a slide rule, I can read all of the other placements by reading the numbers directly across of the zone scale, like 7 on III or 8 on IV or 6 on II (if 9 is on zone 5 (V) then I read the shutter speed and aperture, again like a slide rule, and set my lens and shutter.
Wait there is more. I need to consider belows factor, So I use a tape measure to see how long my bellows is, Inverse square law. How much light loss did I loose because of bellows extension. Make a compensation and shoot. Of course after I have framed and composed, and focused my image.
Man that is a lot of typing to ask this question. I hope you gouns dont ignore me or say no.
Will someone that owns a spotmeter like mine
Make a video tutorial on how to analyze a scene, use this meter to place it on a specific zone any why. Explain the thinking of specific zone placement with respect to the final print. Show how to use the exposure readings are set and adjusted to compensate for bellows factor. Also how the use of filters are considered and what impact they may have to exposure as well as how to make adjustments to correct for any changes. A basic video tutorial on how to use the digital 1 degree spot meter, using the zone system.
I understand lots of film does not have 8 or 9 stops of range. I have used film like Velvia 50 that more like 5 sops of range. I was just trying to explain what I think I know, in the hopes someone will make a video addressing the subject I would like to know more about. I think other new to LF people may like to know this information also.
I am more of a visual learner. I dont really have anyone here in my town to help show me what I am asking. I need clarification, or my brain is going to pop. Also I dont like to waste expensive film, chemistry, and papers or my time on mistakes that can easily be avoided.
I hope one of you if not a few of you will make a video and pass on your information to the new guys, like me.
I feel really stupid trying to explain a complex subject to people who already know, further cementing in their minds I am an idiot! Thanks for your time. It's late and I am so tired. Akfreak <------------- steps away from the puter. Thanks for reading.
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