New to the Forum; New to a Crown Graphic; and in need of advice.

**Frank Petronio** · 13-Apr-2011, 09:14

Yeah Essex should know what they are doing; normal cable release, you need an old bi-pole flash sync (from Paramount, new) to use flash.

**Rob Klurfield** · 13-Apr-2011, 10:17

Frank, you're still the man. (FYI, I'm still thinking about a print.)

**Rob Klurfield** · 13-Apr-2011, 13:08

John, thanks for the suggestions. I've dealt with Igor before; nice guy.

The fellow from whom I bought this camera is a private party and didn't provide a warranty. However, he seems to have plenty of integrity, offering to take the camera back and even cover shipping both ways. He seems to be someone, like me at this stage, who bought this on a whim, used it and then put aside. So, I honestly don't think he had much more clue than I do about what he owned and how to use it to its best advantage. I may ask if he'd reimburse me a portion of any reasonable repair costs.

My next question for him is if he wants to sell the M3 and Dual Range Summicron he claims was sitting on a shelf in his closet next the Crown Graphic.

Though my wife will kill me if another box shows up in our mailbox anytime soon.

Originally Posted by john biskupski

Can't help with repair people, but two good sources for Graphic parts are Mid West Photo and Igor's Cameras, worth speaking to. It seems you're missing the linkage arm to activate the front lens shutter. Not the end of the world if it's missing, just use a cable release. For the rangefinder, you really have to determine whether the (right) cam is in the camera. They are specific to each lens focal length. You do this by extending out the front standard and opening the flap under the top rangefinder. Take a good look through the pages on the Graflex.org site covering your camera to help you, and check out their forum about changing cams. Did your vendor warrant that the rangefinder works with that (very common, and nice) lens? If so, that's implying that the right cam is in place. You can buy replacements, not cheap, c. $50 up I believe, or make your own if you can get a template. It's a fun and very reliable camera, so enjoy it.

**Jim Jones** · 13-Apr-2011, 21:20

Originally Posted by Rob Klurfield

. . . My next question for him is if he wants to sell the M3 and Dual Range Summicron he claims was sitting on a shelf in his closet next the Crown Graphic.

Though my wife will kill me if another box shows up in our mailbox anytime soon.

Go for it! It's a great camera and a much smaller box, so she won't mind so much.

**rdenney** · 14-Apr-2011, 05:28

Those cams were meant to be easily interchangeable by the user--changing them (or at least checking for its presence) shouldn't be too challenging even if your hands are full of thumbs. The only tricky part is realizing where that hinged door is.

If the cam is not there, then that would explain the problem. That's the first place to look. But if it is missing, then you'll need to find one, and I'm finding they do not grow on trees.

As far as the body shutter release goes, there is a bowden cable that runs from the side of the inner body to a fixture on the side of the front standard. That fixture includes a connection for the cable, a vertical rod that runs in a couple of eyelets on the standard, and an actuator that attaches to the other end of the rod. You appear to be missing the cable and the actuator. Lots of folks are like Dan and don't like the body release, and that actuator gets in the way of many lenses. Sometimes, they may just cut out the stuff they don't want, which makes it more difficult to repair if you do want it. In the end, though, I'd rather just hang a cable release off the lens, and attach it to the side of the camera using a cable clamp or something similar.

I never found the body release to really be in the right place, and the actuator is incompatible with the Ilex No. 4 shutter in which my 8-1/2" Paragon is mounted. And forget finding cams for many interesting lenses.

I ended up adding an old Kalart rangefinder to my top-rangefinder Speed. I still need to attach the actuator arm to the focus track, and then calibrate it for the Ilex. My rop rangefinder is already cammed for the 127mm Optar provided with the camera, and it's accurate enough.

Your lens board also has the solenoid release that was used in conjunction with the flash gun. The batteries in the flash would actuate the shutter release in time with the flash. You still needed the flash sync cable. I certainly have no interest in using a flash gun that takes bulbs, so I removed that solenoid actuator, and covered the two holes with black photo tape. That will make it easier to get your finger on the shutter release, too.

Rick "who set aside this project temporarily but will get back to it this year" Denney

**Rob Klurfield** · 14-Apr-2011, 20:08

Hi Rick. Thanks for the tips. I opened the rangefinder housing and confirmed that the cam is intact. However, nothing in the housing moves at all.

I can live with a cable release.

Originally Posted by rdenney

Those cams were meant to be easily interchangeable by the user--changing them (or at least checking for its presence) shouldn't be too challenging even if your hands are full of thumbs. The only tricky part is realizing where that hinged door is.

If the cam is not there, then that would explain the problem. That's the first place to look. But if it is missing, then you'll need to find one, and I'm finding they do not grow on trees.

As far as the body shutter release goes, there is a bowden cable that runs from the side of the inner body to a fixture on the side of the front standard. That fixture includes a connection for the cable, a vertical rod that runs in a couple of eyelets on the standard, and an actuator that attaches to the other end of the rod. You appear to be missing the cable and the actuator. Lots of folks are like Dan and don't like the body release, and that actuator gets in the way of many lenses. Sometimes, they may just cut out the stuff they don't want, which makes it more difficult to repair if you do want it. In the end, though, I'd rather just hang a cable release off the lens, and attach it to the side of the camera using a cable clamp or something similar.

I never found the body release to really be in the right place, and the actuator is incompatible with the Ilex No. 4 shutter in which my 8-1/2" Paragon is mounted. And forget finding cams for many interesting lenses.

I ended up adding an old Kalart rangefinder to my top-rangefinder Speed. I still need to attach the actuator arm to the focus track, and then calibrate it for the Ilex. My rop rangefinder is already cammed for the 127mm Optar provided with the camera, and it's accurate enough.

Your lens board also has the solenoid release that was used in conjunction with the flash gun. The batteries in the flash would actuate the shutter release in time with the flash. You still needed the flash sync cable. I certainly have no interest in using a flash gun that takes bulbs, so I removed that solenoid actuator, and covered the two holes with black photo tape. That will make it easier to get your finger on the shutter release, too.

Rick "who set aside this project temporarily but will get back to it this year" Denney

**Oren Grad** · 14-Apr-2011, 20:16

Originally Posted by rdenney

I ended up adding an old Kalart rangefinder to my top-rangefinder Speed. I still need to attach the actuator arm to the focus track, and then calibrate it for the Ilex. My rop rangefinder is already cammed for the 127mm Optar provided with the camera, and it's accurate enough.

Two rangefinders on the camera? If and when you get it done, I'd be really curious to see what it looks like.

**rdenney** · 14-Apr-2011, 21:11

Originally Posted by Oren Grad

Two rangefinders on the camera? If and when you get it done, I'd be really curious to see what it looks like.

I'll show a picture. But just imagine taking a top-rangefinder speed, and attaching a Kalart on the side. That's what it looks like. I will calibrate the Kalart for the 8-1/2" Paragon, but the actuator lever is from a quarter-plate Speed, and not long enough for the 4x5. I have a box o'parts that I think includes the correct actuator. Then, I need to thread some holes in the focus rail to attach the actuator fitment. And then the nasty task of calibrating the Kalart.

This will be a three-lens camera: I have a 90mm Optar WA, for which I will use the ground glass until I can find or make a focus scale for it. And a 127mm Optar, which is already calibrated to the top rangefinder. And the 8-1/2". I will probably use it mostly with Fujiroid.

Rick "or for experimenting with barrel lenses" Denney

**Jim Jones** · 15-Apr-2011, 07:01

Originally Posted by rdenney

. . . I have a box o'parts that I think includes the correct actuator. . . . Rick "or for experimenting with barrel lenses" Denney

So do I, if you can't find yours. You're welcome to it if you need it. My SG parts are well buried under many years accumulation of camera and other gear, though.

**rdenney** · 15-Apr-2011, 08:18

Originally Posted by Jim Jones

So do I, if you can't find yours. You're welcome to it if you need it. My SG parts are well buried under many years accumulation of camera and other gear, though.

I had bought a Kalart from an Anniversary model, but the actuator lever and the follower that mounts to the focus rail are different than on the Pacemaker series. Those are the two parts I need--and the screws that hold the follower to the focus rail.

I'll put out a general call, too.

Rick "who just took a look at it again" Denney