If you want instant gratification, (and there is nothing wrong with that) you might try shooting chromes, and sending them out. The exposure is a bit tricky, but when you hit it, they are amazing.
If you want instant gratification, (and there is nothing wrong with that) you might try shooting chromes, and sending them out. The exposure is a bit tricky, but when you hit it, they are amazing.
Go buy some film, and release the magic.
Thank you for the answers!
What are chromes!?
I have never heard of them...
I probably saw something exploring the link to the film tests made by dr5 but I did not really get what it was.
Are they positive black and white images!?
Is there any way to develope them by yourself without sending anything to the lab!?
I am not looking for instant gratification, I am ready to spend the time needed to learn, but I hoped the starting point was a bit better...! :-)
Thank you!
Chromes = color transparencies. Stunning.
One man's Mede is another man's Persian.
Processing colour transparencies, usually usually using E-6 chemicals (if you can get them in your area) is not easily done. Once you have considerable experience with B&W, then you can give col processing a try.
Nice ones are amazing to look at on the light box!
If you want to try 4X5 colour shooting, try using col neg film, if you have a lab in your area, as its' much more forgiving for bad exposures than transparencies.
Large format photography for many of us tends to be addictive, in part because it's NOT easy to do, but when you get it right, the results are stunning.
That's what keeps us coming back to our big cameras!
Keith
You could shoot the Chromes. Send them out. Have them scanned. Convert the scan to black and white, while your sorting out the real black and white stuff.
Chrome is short for a color positive film like Fuji Velvia, Fuji Provia, Ektachrome, Kodachrome.
Go buy some film, and release the magic.
Ah ok ok ok...
I always heard the word transparencies for them, never heard of chromes before.
Thank you for the explanation!
Going back to black and whites...
I've read about how to perform one test for finding the proper dev time and EI for the film here (http://www.viewcamera.com/pdf/2006/V...%20Started.pdf) but I have some concern about the part where it says that a negative that is good for print would be good for scanning as well.
I can't remember where I read it but I am quite sure that many people on thin forum said it's not like that.
I am absolutely not an expert but I've read some books on alternative printing processes and I understood that for different types of printing you would need negatives with different qualities so I don't see why it should be different for scanning.
Are there any particular tests specifically studied for finding the best conditions for a negative that will be scanned!?
Thank you!
Your best approach will be to follow the manufacturer's reccomendations for EI, chemistry, time, temperature, and agitation. Do not change ANYTHING until you understand why you are changing it. Developing film isn't any more difficult than following a recipe. Stick with one film and one developer until you can predict the results.
One man's Mede is another man's Persian.
It sounds to me like you fogged the film. Its common for beginners to have problems loading film holders as well as not having a completely dark darkroom. Also the film age could be a problem.
I think its a mistake to try to make abnormal negatives (high high contrast) before you are sure you can make a good normal negative. Also, you must pay attention to detail. Temperature is even more important than time. Get the thermometer.
We all have had learning curves in all we do. Developing, scanning, visualizing, etc. ad nauseum. Reason out what you did wrong. I am anxious to know exactly what happened. Oh yeah, post an example...
-Mark
I think it would be really good to see what your negative looks like, not a scan of the negative, but the negative itself with a good even light source behind it like a lightbox (as somebody else mentioned). I use a canonscan9000f to scan my negatives. Yes, I have to scan each one twice and stitch them together. I can tell you that I feel like there is some kind of voodoo going on with the scanner, or I just don't know how to scan perfectly yet, because sometimes the scans are much brighter than I expect them to be even though the densities are similar to all the other film I've processed in the last 10 years or so.
Good luck!
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