Cambo Question for a First Time View Camera Owner

[akfreak]

So the Ground glass Needs to be Shiney side out? In some material I saw from cambo it says reversable Ground Glass. So I dont understand exactly which way it is supposed to go.

Next the scale on the side of the mono rail is gone. Do I need this scale to make precise measurements or do you frame composition and adjust focus by moving the standards until focus is achieved?

How do I mount a dark cloth to the back of the camera, What makes a good dark cloth, does it have to be blocking material, Excuse not Have but better to be a blocking material.

Final question for this post, you are saying this back




Will not work on the cambo, it fits perfect, it had a dark slide. Why will it not work. Is it because I cannot get film for the back or the back wont function on the camera?
What Fuji film will fit this back?

[Revolucion Artistico]

That looks like a polaroid 405 holder in the last picture, which will take the 3.25x4.25 fuji pack film (not the 4x5 stuff) which a lot of people prefer as it is much cheaper but you will basically get a "crop factor" when using it so you may want to figure out with your ground glass grids exactly what will be in the shot and what won't. $200 is a very good deal on the kit btw. Can't be of much help in identifying the model though, sorry.

[Gem Singer]

"Reversable" ground glass means that the viewing screen in the rear can either be used in the horizontal position, or reversed and used in the vertical position.

The actual ground glass is permanently mounted in the rear frame. The entire frame reverses.

The image is composed and focused on the ground side of the glass, and it is in the same position as the film when a film holder is inserted.

Most of the answers to your questions can be found in the forum archives or the LF home page. Click on the blue tool bar above.

[Paul Ewins]

Cambo was bought out by Calumet and eventually the cameras were rebranded as Calumets. Your camera looks to date from that era. Most parts are interchangeable from one era to the next, so the fact that the lensboard is labelled Cambo doesn't really mean much.

[rdenney]

You do not need the scale on the side of the monorail. It's used for calculating bellows factors for close-up photography, but you can use a ruler (or handspans with a bit of experience).

The Calumet-branded budget versions of this camera sometimes did not include any of the scales. No problem--I always make my adjustments using the image on the ground glass as the judge. My current Sinar has all sorts of scales on it but I still prefer to judge it with a loupe.

Rick "who has a similar Calumet-branded camera" Denney

[lenser]

I have owned and used a Cambo SCX since the early 1980's and I have never once had a need for the scale on the rail. It would be helpful in extremely precise scientific work or possibly if you anticipate needed to repeat a shot and take notes of the extensions for that reference, or possible for some macro work, but I can't imagine any other use for it. In other words, don't worry about it. The rail cap would be much more useful in terms of making sure you don't accidentally drive one of the standards of the end. Lacking that, I would just drill a hole for a round headed screw at the top of one of the ends and let that serve as a stop. As to the cops for the uprights, you might be able to still get those from Calumet repairs at 1-800-CALUMET. If not, they only serve as rise stops and holders for the rarely found and rarely used wire frame to hold a dark cloth off your head. Again, don't be too worried about it.

The Polaroid back you have will work fine with camera and using Fuji pack films as "Revolucion" mentions. The dark slide has been broken off and that is a big problem. You might be able to get a standard 4x5 dark slide and cut it down, but you will need one that is full length. Otherwise, if you leave this out far enough to grip it, you will probably have the other end of the film, fully exposed at all times. The blue pattern on the slide is an indicator of how far it needs to be removed to clear the film for exposure. If it isn't pulled that far or removed entirely, you may block part of the film during the shot. On your hame-made version, just measure from the bottom end on this remnant and the same on the new slide and mark that line. That's the business end so it will tell you when you are safe to shooto

Finally, you may be able to download a manual from butkus.com. They have hundreds of manuals for all kinds of out of production photography gear.

Good luck, and ditto on the fact that you got one hell of a deal on this kit. The lens alone is probably worth half again as much as you paid for the lot.

[cowanw]

Here is Cambo's web site
http://www.cambo.com/
I am not so sure that calumet owns them.

[Vick Vickery]

You did very well...the camera alone often sells for what you paid; and that lens is also probably worth that much and makes a pretty good all-around starter lens! Enjoy your steal!!

The rail on that model probably never had a scale on it and you don't need one; on a monorail camera it is easier to just stretch a small tape measure between the back and the lens to estimate your extention than to count marks on a scale.

[rdenney]

I need some sticks. I saw a set of Zone 5 wooden legs with metal spikes, I was just leary because it looked warped so I passed. Any recommendations on a good old work horse of a tripod that can be had by a frugal photographer as myself. Weight is not an Issue.

Another couple of answers: Bogen 3036 legs are usually quite cheap--often under $100 used with the usual 3047 head. They are abundantly strong for 4x5, and when everything is locked down, they are quite rigid even when they are beat up and wobbly looking. I have three, one bought new, one bought for $100 in used condition, and one bought for $15 at an amateur radio flea market.

You don't actually need the head, at least at first. That tripod gives you a bit of leveling with the adjustable braces, leg lengths, and leg positions. You can do a lot with a level rail to start with, using movements.

A black T-shirt or sweat shirt will do for a dark cloth to start with. Put the neck hole over the back of the camera, your head through the bottom, and your arm through one of the sleeve holes (outside in, of course) to hold the loupe against the glass. Use the other arm for manipulating the movements and controls.

Oh, and the ground surface of the ground glass always faces the lens.

Rick "who has made a lot of photographs in the field with something similar" Denney

[akfreak]

Cambo was bought out by Calumet and eventually the cameras were rebranded as Calumets. Your camera looks to date from that era. Most parts are interchangeable from one era to the next, so the fact that the lensboard is labelled Cambo doesn't really mean much.

Mine says Made in Holland and has a 5 digit serial number 50**59 on the top of the base of the front standard. I think mine is one predating the ones from Calumet. Also on the vertical poles (I know they have a name, slide something) that hold the front and rear standards in place, there is no white little tic marks to mark adjustment. That must of come later when they were bought by Calumet.

I guess I will call Calumet and ask them for some parts, everything seems so darn expensive on their website. I bet they want $20 each for the rail caps

So much to learn. I really appreciate everyones input. It seems this place is very friendly, much like the Olympus forums I frequent.