Sinar F2 Too Heavy For Field Work

[JustinB]

Hey all, I have had my Sinar F2 (4"x5") for the better part of 6 months now and I find I get frustrated trying to drag it out through NYC to shoot. At this point I am not sure what to do to replace it, because the weight is most of the annoyance for me. Once I finally get it set up on a trtipod I find it a joy to photograph with large format cameras, and playing with schleimpflug is (if amateur) fun.

My question is pretty simple I think. Should I be looking at a field camera (doesn't Shen Hao have something compatible with all the Sinar boards/etc.) or will that still be quite heavy and perhaps I should be looking at something like a Hasselblad ArcBody or Flexbody instead?

For understanding I did get a photobackpacker pack based on the Kelty Redwing, no complaints about it, just wanted to note that I am trying to lug things around with the right pack.

Thank You All,
Justin

[Jeremy Graves]

I used to borrow a Sinar F2 in college for field work and had the same complaint about the weight and bulk. My Sinar was in the hard sided suitcase with modular foam padding.

After college I decided to go with a Shen Hao which takes Wista style lensboards. I like the camera for the size and weight but the precision isn't what your used to with the Sinar. I shoot a fair amount of architecture and find the movements and bellows extension limiting for what I need. Front rise is roughly half what I could get on the Sinar. Bellows draw on the Shen Hao is only 12 inches on a flat board.

If you have a chance to borrow a camera before buying one that would give you a good sense of what your giving up by trading the F2.

[Ivan J. Eberle]

Camera choice is to me secondary to lens choice and subject matter. What lenses do you have and/or expect yourself to be using, and what do you shoot?

If it's architecture, for instance, it'd be tough to improve upon a monorail with a bag bellows for wide-angle use.

[Frank Petronio]

Some people can tolerate going from a tight, rigid camera to a flimsy, wobbly one in order to save weight. But to get tight, rigid AND compact and light you end up compromising something... lots of people like their Chamonix ($800) and Ebony ($2500+) cameras as being robust wooden cameras. But you can go too light, like a Tachihari, and find it discomfortingly flexible (no offense to owners, it is only my opinion of course).

There is no free lunch, a Sinar F really isn't that heavy but it can be a bit bulky. You can get more compact with a good metal Wista/Toyo/Linhof but they don't save you much weight. Cameras like the Linhof Technikardan, Arca F-line and Toyo VX are pretty nice ~ but mucho $$$.

The best value is probably to keep the F for complex work and to get something like a Crown Graphic to beat around town in - they are rugged, compact, inexpensive - they just don't a lot of movements. But you can own both a Crown and a Sinar F for $500-$600 and that is pretty sweet.

[john biskupski]

If you want a reasonable range of movements and longer bellows extension but without the weight, you could look at the Canham metal or wood cameras. Users don't describe them as flimsy or wobbly. Or an older Wisner Tech Field. The Graphic choice is very practical, but movements are very restricted. Another idea is a Horseman 45FA, very light, metal, precise, but limited bellows and range of movements. As said above in earlier post, you are into compromises here.

[Doremus Scudder]

With all due respect to Frank and others, I'll unreservedly recommend a smaller wooden field camera. A Wista DX, a Woodman, a Shen Hao or the like are small, compact and lightweight and can be used with most lenses and in most situations. I carry mine (I have Wistas, and a Woodman) all over cities in Europe and on extended wilderness trips and lots of day hikes in the U.S. I have lenses from 75mm to 300 and use them all just fine (the 300 has an extended lensboard).

That said, I would advise you not to get rid of your Sinar F. There are times when the flexibility and range of movements of a monorail camera are indispensable (I've got a couple of those too...). They are especially good for close-in architecture shots when lots of movements are needed and when doing close up work.

The largest problems with wooden folders is not their flimsiness (I've found most to be more than rugged and, as long as you don't manhandle them when actually shooting, they stay still and in position) but the lack of movements. Some of this you can get around by knowing a few tricks. For example, you can point the camera up and then tilt the front and rear standards to vertical to get extra rise. Pan and swing parallel to get extra shift, etc. But, at some point, you will run out of capability. If you find yourself doing this often, then it's back to the monorail or a move up to a more full-featured field camera. But then you get extra weight, exactly what you are trying to eliminate. I have a Zone VI Field Camera that is too heavy and bulky for most of my trips. Sure, it has front and rear standard focusing, much larger movements, and a 21" bellows, but I use those features seldom enough to make that camera my second choice unless I know I'm going to do a lot of long lens work (then I pack the 450mm lens along with the heavier camera and bite the bullet).

Again, keep the Sinar, get a cheap woodie and see how you like it. You can always resell it if you don't.

Best,

Doremus Scudder

[Frank Petronio]

I agree with Doremus, I only bash wooden cameras because of the classic newbie posts that come along about once a month from some starry-eyed digital convert who thinks they need to buy the best $5000 Ebony model right off the bat.

But rather, several people here are making the point not to sell your Sinar (after all, a Sinar F only sells for $300 these days) and instead to simply get an alternative camera for easier transport... the cheapest option is something like a Crown Graphic, progressing up through the range wooden and metal field cameras.

And since he is into architecture don't forget that he could consider nice wide 4x5 compacts like the CamboWide (Sinar Handy, etc.)

The nice thing is that with the internet market, it is easier to buy, try, and resell without losing very much money in the process.

Also, BTW, have you searched and found the threads about how to fold up a Sinar for compact carrying? Or tried using the 150mm short rail for a base? Sometimes the older smaller square plastic rail clamp is considered an advantage as well.

[Ken Lee]

Price - Portability - Useability... You get to pick 2

[rdenney]

Here's my advice: Go buy a Cambo SC/Calumet 45NX, or even better, an old Calumet CC-400, and haul that guy around for a year or so. After that, the Sinar will seem compact and light.

Rick "but, yes, the Shen-Hao XPO is compatible with Sinar boards and bellows" Denney

[Linhof]

i use a small cart to carry sinar P8x10 to shoot my city...and enjoy the result. inside a city where transport means few dollars for a ride, i still shoot with 8x10" film. my lenses include 210 SA, 300,450 and 600mm