Paper negatives

[moizak]

My pre flashing technique was suggested to me by Joe VanCleave on another forum. I have a 15W bulb mounted inside a metal coffee can with a 10mm hole at the bottom and a bit of tracing paper over it. I have an inline switch on the cable. It's hung in my bathroom about 2 1/2 foot from the floor. I use a metronome app on my phone and flash the paper for 5 seconds just counting along with the metronome. It's wonderfully lo-fi.

I'm with you regarding developing, I use ilford universal at 1:20 at 20deg though I will often leave it in a sealed container for a week. The image I posted does show very slight signs of uneven development though it is more apparent in the neg. I've also dabbled with using caffenol-c which works well also.

[jcoldslabs]

I'm all about lo-fi techniques! That sounds like something I can do.

I've been using Ilford Multigrade liquid concentrate. I keep my used developer in a container and add about 1ml of fresh concentrate to it after every couple of sheets. It gets very brown, but it still works fine. I bought all the ingredients for Caffenol but have yet to make a batch. I don't think I need ANOTHER variable to add to the mix quite yet!

J.

[premortho]

I have been shooting paper negs since the 1950's, but more in the last 25 years as Orthochromatic film got hard to get. Then came Variable Contrast paper, which is an Orthochromatic emulsion, and then RC VC which has a more translucent base than fiber. Now I suggest you try shooting through a yellow #2, or #3 filter. One of the great things about Ortho film (and paper) is how malleable it is through filtration. A light (2X exposure) or 3X yellow will bring out tones you have never seen on vc paper negs, un filtered. I use D-72, 24-1 for about 12-15 minutes. The old fasioned way to check developement is to look at both sides of the neg. When they are about equal it's developed. Work backward from there. Meaning less developement. I don't shoot pan film anymore because I can't find any pinakryptol green desensetiser to use with it. So I use "green" x-ray film, or vc paper. So much easier to develop with the lights on!!

I shot this rather unexciting scene today mainly to see if I could coax some subtle tones from a paper negative, and on that front I believe I succeeded.

Kodak 2D 8x10, 210mm f/5.5 Hugo Meyer Doppel Anastigmat @ f/22, Kodak Kodabrome RC F3 paper negative.




Jonathan

[moizak]

premortho,

That's some great advice, thanks for that. I did some trials through a #0 multigrade filter but didn't see much difference. Will try and get a yellow #2 or 3 and give it another go.

Thanks.

[Reinhold Schable]

Here are two post outlining my method for pre-flasing paper negatives:

http://www.apug.org/forums/forum426/...negatives.html
and:
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum426/...negatives.html

One thing I failed to say was that I hold a piece of matt acetate under the lens to eliminate any "Hot Spots".
Any thin diffuser will work... ruff up a piece of plexiglass with some sandpaper, for example.

Reinhold
www.re-inventedPhotoEquip.com

[jcoldslabs]

Now I suggest you try shooting through a yellow #2, or #3 filter. One of the great things about Ortho film (and paper) is how malleable it is through filtration. A light (2X exposure) or 3X yellow will bring out tones you have never seen on vc paper negs, un filtered.

Thanks for the detailed tips. I have been meaning to try a yellow filter, but the existing yellow filters I have don't fit the old brass lenses I tend to use. I should pick up some yellow gels and tape them to the back of the lens for shooting.

The old fasioned way to check developement is to look at both sides of the neg. When they are about equal it's developed.

Right now I am developing my paper negs in daylight drums, so I am not able to develop by inspection which, I admit, would be ideal. I have a very small closet that I have blacked out in order to load and unload my film, but I don't know that I can fit three 8x10 trays in there!

Jonathan

[jcoldslabs]

Reinhold,

I don't have an enlarger in place at the moment (no room yet), so I need to find a way to flash the paper in-camera. One idea I have is to de-focus the camera significantly, or cover the lens with something that is evenly translucent, and point it at my light box. Through testing I should be able to figure out the ideal flashing distance and time.

Jonathan

[Reinhold Schable]

Jonathan,

C'mon over and I'll give you a couple of pieces of matte polyester that you can mount in a filter ring.
It's great for just such projects...
Reinhold

[jcoldslabs]

C'mon over and I'll give you a couple of pieces of matte polyester that you can mount in a filter ring.
It's great for just such projects...

Thanks. I've actually been meaning to contact you about some lens boards and other photographic needs. I'll be in touch.

Jonathan

[Peter van Rychvald]

speed graphic, ektar 127mm, ilford x-press mg rc