Paper negatives

[Luke79]

Greetings to all , i dont know if it has allready been answered, but i currently starting out with 8x10 negative papers, and therefore would like to know what i need to do my first 8x10 papers,
i would like to scan the negativ and not contact print.

i thought of illford rc papers to start with, do i get them in 8x10 size? and do they fit into the regular holders?

so they are iso 6-12 , is there a list where i can see which papers got which iso?

Sorry if it has been asked, but i would really like to know

Luke

[Jimi]

Luke, get some RC paper in 8x10 size (or 18x24 if you have that size of film holders) and try it out at iso 6 and 12, develop a few and see where you are. I've done 5x7 RC paper negatives in Rodinal (just ran what I could scrounge up from the cupboard) and I have to say I really like the process. The ISO is just a starting point and you can adjust it up or down to give you the negatives you want.

[bob carnie]

Claudio

I really like the salt print . You seem to be ready for the future.

[Luke79]

Luke, get some RC paper in 8x10 size (or 18x24 if you have that size of film holders) and try it out at iso 6 and 12, develop a few and see where you are. I've done 5x7 RC paper negatives in Rodinal (just ran what I could scrounge up from the cupboard) and I have to say I really like the process. The ISO is just a starting point and you can adjust it up or down to give you the negatives you want.

thank you jimi, so i can use my rodinal, nice, so this all can be done in redlight? rodinal+stopbath+ illford fixer ? do you have special times for developing stopping and fixing?

best wishes Luke

[Jimi]

Just be aware that you may not get the blackest blacks with Rodinal. You can do this in red or amber light. I did my negatives in a drum, constant, slow agitation for 5 minutes, but I think you need to experiment yourself a bit to find your way of doing it. The good thing about doing it in a tray is that you can see the image coming up and with a bit of experience I guess you could see when to get it out of the developer.

[csant]

I really like the salt print . You seem to be ready for the future.

Hah! Thank you, yes - the day there'll be no more film and no more paper… I'll be dead anyway! But I am getting ready for that future

[desertrat]

I tested some glossy VC RC "mystery paper" from Ultrafine Online. The package doesn't list country of manufacture or any other information. It's definitely not the same as the Arista EDU Ultra paper I've been using. It has a slightly different texture, it curls away from the emulsion (strange) and it responds to contrast filtration differently that the Arista paper. As a negative in camera, it's somewhat more contrasty when exposed through a yellow #8 filter than the Arista paper, which isn't necessarily bad. Scanned paper negative, image flipped horizontally and tones inverted in Gimp.

This sheet was exposed in the 8X10 Seneca using the extension rail and an off-brand lens wide open at f8. The lens is engraved:

8X10 Rapid Rectilinear Ralph J. Golsen Supply Co., Chicago. It's in a Wollensak Regular shutter and from looking at the catalogs it could be Wollensak's standard 8X10 RR from about 1908.

Walnut leaves.

[dynamo]

My first one.

Linhof Super Technika V, 13x18 (5x7), Apo-Symmar 210, Ilford Multigrade IV RC

[premortho]

I don't know how to make paper negatives in a computer, but Freestyle's Arista variable contrast resin coated paper works well, and you can use a light yellow filter to bring out cloud detail...2 1/2 more exposure.

[ndg]

My first...my wife's shoes....18" Verito at f4, Arista EDU 8x10 RC glossy paper, 2 speedotron strobes...with the lights in the studio at their dimmest, lens cap taken off and strobes fired, lens cap replaced.... developed in Dektol, scanned as transmissive.